UKH

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Yankee Doodle, now sadly no longer with us.
Jamie Holding, May 1986
© jon

South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) ticklist

contributed by duncan Sep/19

The shock of the new. When published it was the first time Pentire Head, Tintagel or Carn Gowla had appeared in a widely available guidebook. It still works as a fine selection of middle-grade routes, though some of the Cheddar and Torbay choices in might raise an eyebrow in the 21st century.

Morning Glory (Cheddar), Easter Egg (Swanage), Crimtyphon and Caravanserai (Compass Point), Spacewalk (Lundy), and Yankee Doodle (Land's End) have changed significantly or disappeared completely.

User Percentage Latest Log
1 Marti999 71% 29 Oct, 2020
2 Hidden 56% 19 Sep
3 duncan 50% 22 May
4 steve_gibbs 37% 6 Oct
5 Steve Claw 31% 21 Sep
6 rogerskews 21% 14 Apr, 2020
7 AndyMorrall 16% 21 Sep
8 Lawcallum 14% 6 Sep
9 Hidden 10% 27 Apr
10 Dom Goodwin 10% 24 Sep

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Note: Only showing summits, scrambles, winter routes, and low grade climbs

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
AVON GORGE
The Earl of Perth E1 5b *** 434 46m • 2 Avon Gorge...
Suspension Bridge ArĂȘte HVS 5a ** 1125 35m Avon Gorge...
Giant's Cave Buttress VS 4c *** 1156 80m • 3 Avon Gorge...
Great Central Route HVS 5a *** 470 68m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Central Rib VS 4b * 388 61m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
The ArĂȘte VD 4a ** 1564 40m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Direct Route S 4a * 947 27m Avon Gorge (Main...
Sinister HS 4b ** 1082 52m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Mike's Mistake E1 5b ** 296 53m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Pink Wall Traverse HVS 5a ** 215 47m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Dawn Walk S 4a * 377 65m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Pink Wall Direct E2 5c ** 103 60m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Lich Gates E2 5c *** 181 54m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Malbogies HVS 5a *** 795 57m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
The Preter E2 5b *** 119 77m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Krapp's Last Tape E3 5b *** 157 35m Avon Gorge (Main...
Think Pink E3 6a *** 154 69m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Bon Bogies HVS 5a ** 230 30m Avon Gorge (Main...
The Lich HVS 5a ** 395 27m Avon Gorge (Main...
Nightmare S 4a ** 1360 50m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Last Slip E3 5c *** 101 40m • 2 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Morpheus HVD ** 1619 67m • 4 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Yellow Edge E3 5c *** 283 72m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Unknown Wall VS 4c ** 506 55m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
The Blik E3 5b ** 82 50m Avon Gorge (Sea...
BREAN DOWN
Pandora's Box VS 4c * 119 ? Brean Down
Cyclops Slab HVS 4c ** 62 ? Brean Down
Great Corner E2 5a * 23 ? Brean Down
CHEDDAR
Ready Steady Go E1 4 50m Cheddar Gorge South
Consolation E1 5b ** 48 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Temptation HS 4b 71 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Brainbiter E2 5b *** 32 ? • 2 Cheddar Gorge South
Doomwatch E1 5b 5 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Utopia HVS 4c ** 79 ? • 3 Cheddar Gorge South
Nirvana E2 5b * 2 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Burma Road E2 5c * 26 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Mourning Glory VS 22 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Crow (WW) E3 5c *** 57 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Sceptre VS 4c 44 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Coronation Street (WW) E1 5b *** 533 ? Cheddar Gorge South
The Twilight of Imperialism E2 5b ** 88 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Eat a Peach HVS 5a * 14 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Thor HVS 5b ** 71 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Knight's Climb (WW) D 160 52m • 3 Cheddar Gorge South
SWANAGE
Mars E2 5b *** 133 25m • 2 Subluminal and...
Melpomene E4 5c *** 26 30m Subluminal and...
Strophanthin HVS 5a 26 45m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Elysium E1 5b *** 500 38m Boulder Ruckle
Lightning Wall HVS 5a *** 747 38m Boulder Ruckle
Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds Combination HVS 5a * 12 35m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall) VS 5a *** 255 46m • 3 Boulder Ruckle
Finale Groove HVS 4c *** 810 35m Boulder Ruckle
Wall Street HS 4b *** 472 32m • 2 Cormorant Ledge
Quality Street HVS 4c *** 345 ? Cormorant Ledge
Ledgend Direct HVS 5a ** 371 33m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Tensor II VS 5a *** 903 35m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Zo-Zo VS 4b * 248 40m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Warlord E4 6a *** 68 45m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Tudor Rose E2 5b *** 180 ? Guillemot Ledge
TORBAY
Love Not War S * 4 65m • 2 Babbacombe Crags
Safari HVS 5b ** 18 96m • 4 Long Quarry Point
Black Ice E3 5c *** 150 53m • 2 Long Quarry Point
Ruby in the Dust VS 4c * 57 60m • 2 Long Quarry Point
The Gilded Turd HVS 4c 6 73m • 4 Long Quarry Point
Steppenwolf Direct E2 5c * 2 70m • 3 Long Quarry Point
Incubus Direct E3 5c * 12 43m • 2 Sanctuary Wall
Sacrosanct E1 5a ** 87 70m • 2 Sanctuary Wall
The Mitre E3 6b *** 40 25m Anstey's Cove
Gargantua E1 5b *** 147 40m • 3 Daddyhole Main Cliff
Gates of Eden HVS 5a *** 528 46m • 3 Daddyhole Main Cliff
Last Exit to Torquay HVS 5b *** 301 41m • 2 Daddyhole Main Cliff
Triton VS 5a * 286 46m • 2 Daddyhole Main Cliff
The Pearl HS 4b 53 63m • 2 Daddyhole Main Cliff
The Watchtower Part II 6c+ S1 *** 121 130m London Bridge
Moonraker HVS 5a *** 595 76m • 3 Berry Head - The...
Dreadnought E3 5c *** 139 79m • 3 Berry Head - The...
Goddess of Gloom HVS 5a ** 66 59m • 3 Berry Head - The...
Yardarm E2 5b ** 27 57m • 2 Berry Head - The...
Magical Mystery Tour E1 5b *** 722 335m Berry Head - The...
Rainbow Bridge E4 6b *** 381 280m Berry Head - The...
Yellow Rurties E1 5a * 13 60m • 2 Berry Head Quarry
Paranoid E1 5b * 6 45m Berry Head Quarry
Quality Street VS 4c ** 50 85m • 4 Berry Head Quarry
CHUDLEIGH ROCKS
Gagool E1 5b ** 229 33m • 2 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Sarcophagus VS 4b *** 637 31m • 3 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Barn Owl Crack HVD ** 670 ? Chudleigh Rocks -...
Machete Wall E2 5c ** 382 27m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Jollies Route HVD *** 1189 40m • 3 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Inkerman Groove VS 4c *** 1108 35m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Never On Sunday HS 4b ** 738 50m • 2 Chudleigh Rocks -...
The Spider E1 5b *** 449 44m • 2 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Great Western VS 5a *** 610 43m • 4 Chudleigh Rocks -...
The Equation E3 6a ** 5 69m • 3 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Plexus VS 4b ** 55 30m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Nexus S 4a ** 89 30m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Nimrod HVS 5a ** 28 30m Chudleigh Rocks -...
HAYTOR AND LOW MAN
Canis VS 4c * 173 33m Haytor
Vandal and Ann HVS 5b *** 470 27m • 2 Haytor
Raven Gully S ** 1380 27m • 3 Haytor
Interrogation E3 6a *** 213 35m Haytor
Aviation E1 5b *** 935 36m • 2 Haytor
THE DEWERSTONE
Pinnacle Buttress VD ** 857 ? The Dewerstone
Mucky Gully D ** 1662 ? The Dewerstone
Colonel's Arete VD ** 1593 ? • 4 The Dewerstone
Central Groove HS 4b *** 2947 ? • 2 The Dewerstone
Fruitflancase E1 5a *** 391 46m • 3 The Dewerstone
Climbers' Club Direct HVS 5a *** 783 ? • 2 The Dewerstone
Route B HVD ** 1135 ? The Dewerstone
Needle Arete VD ** 1076 ? • 3 The Dewerstone
BAGGY POINT
Ben S 4a *** 1321 ? Baggy Point
Kinkyboots VS 4c * 828 61m • 2 Baggy Point
Midnight Cowboy HVS 5b *** 569 ? Baggy Point
Pink Void VS 4c * 85 ? Baggy Point
Undercracker E1 5a ** 221 ? Baggy Point
Urizen VS 4c * 548 ? Baggy Point
Shangri-La S 4a *** 1305 45m Baggy Point
Scrattling Crack VD ** 421 ? Baggy Point
BLACKCHURCH
The Almighty E1 5a * 10 ? Blackchurch
Savage God E4 5c ** 8 74m Blackchurch
The Verger E1 5a * 35 ? Blackchurch
The Archtempter E3 5b ** 35 ? Blackchurch
Sacre Coeur E2 5c *** 493 ? Blackchurch
CORNAKEY CLIFF
Wreckers' Slab VS 4b ** 640 115m • 3 Cornakey Cliff
LOWER SHARPNOSE POINT
Mascon E1 5a ** 256 ? Lower Sharpnose...
Clawtrack HVS 4c * 159 40m Lower Sharpnose...
Lunakhod HVS 5a *** 617 40m Lower Sharpnose...
COMPASS POINT
Tydomin HVS 4c ** 230 ? Compass Point (Bude)
Crimtyphon E2 5c 250 30m Compass Point (Bude)
Caravanserai HVS 5a 185 ? Compass Point (Bude)
FOCAL BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
Ulysses Factor HVS 5a * 85 ? Lundy
Golden Gate E4 6a *** 15 ? Lundy
WEIRD WALL (LUNDY)
Apsara HVS 4c 2 ? Lundy
Wodwo E2 5b * 3 ? Lundy
Navigator E3 5c ** - ? Lundy
OLD LIGHT CLIFF (LUNDY)
Albacore HVS 5a ** 78 ? Lundy
Sambo HVS 5a * 4 ? • 4 Lundy
ALPINE BUTTRESS AREA (LUNDY)
Wolfman Jack E3 5c *** 148 ? • 2 Lundy
FLYING BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
Diamond Solitaire VS 4c ** 534 40m • 2 Lundy
DEVIL'S CHIMNEY CLIFF (LUNDY)
Spacewalk E3 5b 16 90m • 3 Lundy
The Promised Land E3 6a *** 41 ? Lundy
DEEP ZAWN (LUNDY)
Quatermass E2 5c *** 90 ? Lundy
Antiworlds E5 6a *** 22 ? • 3 Lundy
EGYPTIAN SLABS
Immaculate Slab HVS 5a *** 199 ? Lundy
GRAND FALLS ZAWN
American Beauty HVS 5a *** 371 ? Lundy
THE DEVIL'S SLIDE (LUNDY)
The Devil's Slide HS 4a *** 1237 117m • 5 Lundy
Albion VS 4c *** 722 107m • 4 Lundy
FLUTED FACE (LUNDY)
Performance E1 5b ** 29 ? Lundy
Magic Flute HVS 5a 14 ? Lundy
ARCH ZAWN (LUNDY)
Headline E1 5b *** 106 ? • 2 Lundy
Stop Press E2 5c ** 33 ? • 2 Lundy
TINTAGEL HEAD
Il Duce E5 6a *** 47 ? Tintagel Head
DOYDEN POINT
Caprice VS 4c ** 121 ? Doyden Point
Lotus E1 5b *** 123 ? Doyden Point
PENTIRE POINT
Eroica E4 6a *** 229 ? Pentire Point
Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 6a *** 135 ? Pentire Point
CARN GOWLA
America E4 5c *** 37 ? Carn Gowla
Mausoleum E2 5b ** 12 ? Carn Gowla
Happy Hunting Ground HVS 5a * 6 ? Carn Gowla
Demerara E1 5a * 16 ? Carn Gowla
Mercury E2 5b *** 122 ? Carn Gowla
Journey to Ixtlan HVS 4c ** 83 ? Carn Gowla
CHEESEWRING QUARRY
Simanon Direct HVS 4c ** 137 ? Cheesewring Quarry
Eyefull Tower E2 6a *** 72 ? Cheesewring Quarry
Traitor's Gate HS 4b * 60 ? Cheesewring Quarry
THE DEVIL'S JUMP
South East Climb VD * 92 25m Devil's Jump
BOSIGAN
Alison Rib D *** 3305 59m • 3 Bosigran
Ledge Climb HVD *** 1407 73m • 3 Bosigran
Little Brown Jug VS 5a *** 2215 66m • 3 Bosigran
Doorpost HS 4b *** 3229 67m • 3 Bosigran
Bow Wall E2 5b *** 577 52m • 2 Bosigran
Suicide Wall E1 5c *** 1016 78m • 5 Bosigran
Autumn Flakes/Nameless VS 4c ** 116 60m • 3 Bosigran
Ding VS 4c ** 724 42m • 2 Bosigran
Ochre Slab Route I HVS 5a ** 731 32m • 2 Bosigran
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge VD *** 2898 161m • 8 Bosigran Ridge Area
The Variety Show HVS 5a ** 193 57m • 2 Great Zawn
Green Cormorant Face E2 5c ** 72 50m • 3 Great Zawn
The Dream/Liberator E3 6a *** 121 64m • 3 Great Zawn
Desolation Row E2 5b ** 118 36m Great Zawn
GURNARD'S HEAD
Right Angle HS 4b *** 858 73m • 3 Gurnard's Head
Behemoth E2 5c ** 62 43m • 3 Gurnard's Head
CARN KENIDJACK
Gneiss Gnome HS 4a * 195 27m Kenidjack Cliffs
Saxon HVS 5a *** 748 50m Kenidjack Cliffs
CHAIR LADDER
Pegasus HS 4b *** 607 70m • 3 Chair Ladder
South Face Direct VS 4c *** 1085 59m • 4 Chair Ladder
Pendulum Chimney S 4b *** 852 59m • 5 Chair Ladder
Aerial VS 4c ** 241 47m • 3 Chair Ladder
Flannel Avenue HS 4b *** 337 52m • 3 Chair Ladder
Diocese VS 5a *** 826 56m • 4 Chair Ladder
Bishop's Rib E1 5b *** 630 53m • 3 Chair Ladder
Terrier's Tooth HS 4b *** 389 40m • 3 Chair Ladder
LAND'S END
The Cormorant's Bill E1 5b ** 49 28m Lands End
Johnstone's Route S 4a * 25 28m • 2 Lands End
World's End E1 5a * 36 25m Lands End
Zawn Face Route HVS 4c * 30 27m • 2 Lands End
Yankee Doodle E2 5b ** 26 ? Lands End
SENNEN
Double Overhang VS 4c ** 1021 18m Sennen
Staircase D ** 1443 18m Sennen
Corner Climb VD ** 1740 20m Sennen
Demo Route HS 4b *** 3161 19m • 2 Sennen
Zig Zag HVS 5a ** 512 18m Sennen
177 e, 424 stars 89,162 7,070m 382
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
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