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Dan overcoming the final roof of The Lich on Main Wall, Avon Gorge
© Steve Bartle, Sep 2015

South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) ticklist

contributed by duncan Sep/19

The shock of the new. When published it was the first time Pentire Head, Tintagel or Carn Gowla had appeared in a widely available guidebook. It still works as a fine selection of middle-grade routes, though some of the Cheddar and Torbay choices in might raise an eyebrow in the 21st century.

Morning Glory (Cheddar), Easter Egg (Swanage), Crimtyphon and Caravanserai (Compass Point), Spacewalk (Lundy), and Yankee Doodle (Land's End) have changed significantly or disappeared completely.

User Percentage Latest Log
1 Marti999 72% 8 Aug
2 Hidden 56% Mar, 2004
3 duncan 50% 15 Oct, 2021
4 steve_gibbs 33% 1 Jun
5 Steve Claw 31% 30 May
6 badgerjockey 23% 6 Aug
7 rogerskews 21% 23 Sep, 2009
8 ClimbingNut 20% 22 Jun
9 AndyMorrall 17% 9 Aug
10 Hidden 16% 13 Aug

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Note: Only showing summits, scrambles, winter routes, and low grade climbs

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
AVON GORGE
The Earl of Perth E1 5b *** 451 46m • 2 Avon Gorge...
Suspension Bridge ArĂȘte HVS 5a ** 1191 35m Avon Gorge...
Giant's Cave Buttress VS 4c *** 1260 80m • 3 Avon Gorge...
Great Central Route HVS 5a *** 506 68m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Central Rib VS 4b * 408 61m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
The ArĂȘte VD 4a ** 1696 40m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Direct Route S 4a * 1035 27m Avon Gorge (Main...
Sinister HS 4b ** 1159 52m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Mike's Mistake E1 5b ** 315 53m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Pink Wall Traverse HVS 5a ** 238 47m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Dawn Walk S 4a * 400 65m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Pink Wall Direct E2 5c ** 110 60m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Lich Gates E2 5c *** 194 54m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Malbogies HVS 5a *** 846 57m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
The Preter E2 5b *** 127 77m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Krapp's Last Tape E3 5b *** 167 35m Avon Gorge (Main...
Think Pink E3 6a *** 163 69m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Bon Bogies HVS 5a ** 243 30m Avon Gorge (Main...
The Lich HVS 5a ** 412 27m Avon Gorge (Main...
Nightmare S 4a ** 1457 50m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Last Slip E3 5c *** 103 40m • 2 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Morpheus HVD ** 1725 67m • 4 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Yellow Edge E3 5c *** 293 72m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Unknown Wall VS 4c ** 541 55m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
The Blik E3 5b ** 87 50m Avon Gorge (Sea...
BREAN DOWN
Pandora's Box VS 4c * 120 ? Brean Down
Cyclops Slab HVS 4c ** 66 ? Brean Down
Great Corner E2 5a * 26 ? Brean Down
CHEDDAR
Ready Steady Go E1 6 50m Cheddar Gorge South
Consolation E1 5b ** 51 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Temptation HS 4b 74 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Brainbiter E2 5b *** 35 ? • 2 Cheddar Gorge South
Doomwatch E1 5b 7 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Utopia HVS 4c ** 80 ? • 3 Cheddar Gorge South
Nirvana E2 5b * 2 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Burma Road E2 5c * 27 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Mourning Glory VS 24 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Crow (WW) E3 5c *** 63 120m • 5 Cheddar Gorge South
Sceptre VS 4c 46 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Coronation Street (WW) E1 5b *** 560 ? • 6 Cheddar Gorge South
The Twilight of Imperialism E2 5b ** 92 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Eat a Peach HVS 5a * 16 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Thor HVS 5b ** 73 ? Cheddar Gorge South
Knight's Climb (WW) D 171 52m • 3 Cheddar Gorge South
SWANAGE
Mars E2 5b *** 140 25m • 2 Subluminal and...
Melpomene E4 5c *** 28 30m Subluminal and...
Strophanthin HVS 5a 27 45m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Elysium E1 5b *** 535 38m Boulder Ruckle
Lightning Wall HVS 5a *** 784 38m Boulder Ruckle
Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds Combination HVS 5a * 16 35m • 2 Boulder Ruckle
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall) VS 5a *** 256 46m • 3 Boulder Ruckle
Finale Groove HVS 4c *** 852 35m Boulder Ruckle
Wall Street HS 4b *** 501 32m • 2 Cormorant Ledge
Quality Street HVS 4c *** 368 ? Cormorant Ledge
Ledgend Direct HVS 5a ** 394 33m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Tensor II VS 5a *** 957 35m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Zo-Zo VS 4b * 260 40m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Warlord E4 6a *** 70 45m • 2 Guillemot Ledge
Tudor Rose E2 5b *** 186 ? Guillemot Ledge
TORBAY
Love Not War S * 4 65m • 2 Babbacombe Crags
Safari HVS 5b ** 19 96m • 4 Long Quarry Point
Black Ice E3 5c *** 161 53m • 2 Long Quarry Point
Ruby in the Dust VS 4c * 58 60m • 2 Long Quarry Point
The Gilded Turd HVS 4c 7 73m • 4 Long Quarry Point
Steppenwolf Direct E2 5c * 2 70m • 3 Long Quarry Point
Incubus Direct E3 5c * 13 43m • 2 Sanctuary Wall
Sacrosanct E1 5a ** 91 70m • 2 Sanctuary Wall
The Mitre E3 6b *** 45 25m Anstey's Cove
Gargantua E1 5b *** 157 40m • 3 Daddyhole Main Cliff
Gates of Eden HVS 5a *** 553 46m • 3 Daddyhole Main Cliff
Last Exit to Torquay HVS 5b *** 315 41m • 2 Daddyhole Main Cliff
Triton VS 5a * 292 46m • 2 Daddyhole Main Cliff
The Pearl HS 4b 54 63m • 2 Daddyhole Main Cliff
The Watchtower Part II 6c+ S1 *** 130 130m London Bridge
Moonraker HVS 5a *** 613 76m • 3 Berry Head - The...
Dreadnought E3 5c *** 139 79m • 3 Berry Head - The...
Goddess of Gloom HVS 5a ** 69 59m • 3 Berry Head - The...
Yardarm E2 5b ** 29 57m • 2 Berry Head - The...
Magical Mystery Tour E1 5b *** 740 335m Berry Head - The...
Rainbow Bridge E4 6b *** 397 280m Berry Head - The...
Yellow Rurties E1 5a * 14 60m • 2 Berry Head Quarry
Paranoid E1 5b * 7 45m Berry Head Quarry
Quality Street VS 4c ** 58 85m • 4 Berry Head Quarry
CHUDLEIGH ROCKS
Gagool E1 5b ** 240 33m • 2 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Sarcophagus VS 4b *** 666 31m • 3 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Barn Owl Crack HVD ** 693 ? Chudleigh Rocks -...
Machete Wall E2 5c ** 401 27m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Jollies Route HVD *** 1233 40m • 3 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Inkerman Groove VS 4c *** 1184 35m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Never On Sunday HS 4b ** 778 50m • 2 Chudleigh Rocks -...
The Spider E1 5b *** 464 44m • 2 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Great Western VS 5a *** 640 43m • 4 Chudleigh Rocks -...
The Equation E3 6a ** 5 69m • 3 Chudleigh Rocks -...
Plexus VS 4b ** 62 30m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Nexus S 4a ** 100 30m Chudleigh Rocks -...
Nimrod HVS 5a ** 30 30m Chudleigh Rocks -...
HAYTOR AND LOW MAN
Canis VS 4c * 178 33m Haytor
Vandal and Ann HVS 5b *** 492 27m • 2 Haytor
Raven Gully S ** 1477 27m • 3 Haytor
Interrogation E3 6a *** 216 35m Haytor
Aviation E1 5b *** 983 36m • 2 Haytor
THE DEWERSTONE
Pinnacle Buttress VD ** 936 ? The Dewerstone
Mucky Gully D ** 1772 ? The Dewerstone
Colonel's Arete VD ** 1719 ? • 4 The Dewerstone
Central Groove HS 4b *** 3179 ? • 2 The Dewerstone
Fruitflancase E1 5a *** 431 46m • 3 The Dewerstone
Climbers' Club Direct HVS 5a *** 826 ? • 2 The Dewerstone
Route B HVD ** 1238 ? The Dewerstone
Needle Arete VD ** 1132 ? • 3 The Dewerstone
BAGGY POINT
Ben S 4a *** 1401 ? Baggy Point
Kinkyboots VS 4c * 853 61m • 2 Baggy Point
Midnight Cowboy HVS 5b *** 594 ? Baggy Point
Pink Void VS 4c * 86 ? Baggy Point
Undercracker E1 5a ** 237 ? Baggy Point
Urizen VS 4c * 595 ? Baggy Point
Shangri-La S 4a *** 1386 45m Baggy Point
Scrattling Crack VD ** 441 ? Baggy Point
BLACKCHURCH
The Almighty E1 5a * 10 ? Blackchurch
Savage God E4 5c ** 10 74m Blackchurch
The Verger E1 5a * 36 ? Blackchurch
The Archtempter E3 5b ** 40 ? Blackchurch
Sacre Coeur E2 5c *** 541 ? Blackchurch
CORNAKEY CLIFF
Wreckers' Slab VS 4b ** 685 115m • 3 Cornakey Cliff
LOWER SHARPNOSE POINT
Mascon E1 5a ** 270 ? Lower Sharpnose...
Clawtrack HVS 4c * 164 40m Lower Sharpnose...
Lunakhod HVS 5a *** 652 40m Lower Sharpnose...
COMPASS POINT
Tydomin HVS 4c ** 245 ? Compass Point (Bude)
Crimtyphon E2 5c 265 30m Compass Point (Bude)
Caravanserai HVS 5a 189 ? Compass Point (Bude)
FOCAL BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
Ulysses Factor HVS 5a * 91 ? Lundy
Golden Gate E4 6a *** 15 ? Lundy
WEIRD WALL (LUNDY)
Apsara HVS 4c 3 ? Lundy
Wodwo E2 5b * 5 ? Lundy
Navigator E3 5c ** 1 ? Lundy
OLD LIGHT CLIFF (LUNDY)
Albacore HVS 5a ** 83 ? Lundy
Sambo HVS 5a * 4 ? • 4 Lundy
ALPINE BUTTRESS AREA (LUNDY)
Wolfman Jack E3 5c *** 152 ? • 2 Lundy
FLYING BUTTRESS (LUNDY)
Diamond Solitaire VS 4c ** 549 40m • 2 Lundy
DEVIL'S CHIMNEY CLIFF (LUNDY)
Spacewalk E3 5b 17 90m • 3 Lundy
The Promised Land E3 6a *** 42 ? Lundy
DEEP ZAWN (LUNDY)
Quatermass E2 5c *** 96 ? Lundy
Antiworlds E5 6a *** 23 ? • 3 Lundy
EGYPTIAN SLABS
Immaculate Slab HVS 5a *** 205 ? Lundy
GRAND FALLS ZAWN
American Beauty HVS 5a *** 382 ? Lundy
THE DEVIL'S SLIDE (LUNDY)
The Devil's Slide HS 4a *** 1287 117m • 5 Lundy
Albion VS 4c *** 746 107m • 4 Lundy
FLUTED FACE (LUNDY)
Performance E1 5b ** 30 ? Lundy
Magic Flute HVS 5a 16 ? Lundy
ARCH ZAWN (LUNDY)
Headline E1 5b *** 111 ? • 2 Lundy
Stop Press E2 5c ** 35 ? • 2 Lundy
TINTAGEL HEAD
Il Duce E5 6a *** 48 ? Tintagel Head
DOYDEN POINT
Caprice VS 4c ** 133 ? Doyden Point
Lotus E1 5b *** 135 ? Doyden Point
PENTIRE POINT
Eroica E4 6a *** 236 ? Pentire Point
Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 6a *** 138 ? Pentire Point
CARN GOWLA
America E4 5c *** 42 ? Carn Gowla
Mausoleum E2 5b ** 14 ? Carn Gowla
Happy Hunting Ground HVS 5a * 7 ? Carn Gowla
Demerara E1 5a * 17 ? Carn Gowla
Mercury E2 5b *** 135 ? Carn Gowla
Journey to Ixtlan HVS 4c ** 90 ? Carn Gowla
CHEESEWRING QUARRY
Simanon Direct HVS 4c ** 142 ? Cheesewring Quarry
Eyefull Tower E2 6a *** 73 ? Cheesewring Quarry
Traitor's Gate HS 4b * 64 ? Cheesewring Quarry
THE DEVIL'S JUMP
South East Climb VD * 98 25m Devil's Jump
BOSIGAN
Alison Rib D *** 3536 59m • 3 Bosigran
Ledge Climb HVD *** 1475 73m • 3 Bosigran
Little Brown Jug VS 5a *** 2324 66m • 3 Bosigran
Doorpost HS 4b *** 3414 67m • 3 Bosigran
Bow Wall E2 5b *** 607 52m • 2 Bosigran
Suicide Wall E1 5c *** 1057 78m • 5 Bosigran
Autumn Flakes/Nameless VS 4c ** 124 60m • 3 Bosigran
Ding VS 4c ** 780 42m • 2 Bosigran
Ochre Slab Route I HVS 5a ** 763 32m • 2 Bosigran
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge VD *** 3115 161m • 8 Bosigran Ridge Area
The Variety Show HVS 5a ** 202 57m • 2 Great Zawn
Green Cormorant Face E2 5c ** 75 50m • 3 Great Zawn
The Dream/Liberator E3 6a *** 127 64m • 3 Great Zawn
Desolation Row E2 5b ** 123 36m Great Zawn
GURNARD'S HEAD
Right Angle HS 4b *** 912 73m • 3 Gurnard's Head
Behemoth E2 5c ** 66 43m • 3 Gurnard's Head
CARN KENIDJACK
Gneiss Gnome HS 4a * 215 27m Kenidjack Cliffs
Saxon HVS 5a *** 791 50m Kenidjack Cliffs
CHAIR LADDER
Pegasus HS 4b *** 649 70m • 3 Chair Ladder
South Face Direct VS 4c *** 1155 59m • 4 Chair Ladder
Pendulum Chimney S 4b *** 927 59m • 5 Chair Ladder
Aerial VS 4c ** 253 47m • 3 Chair Ladder
Flannel Avenue HS 4b *** 346 52m • 3 Chair Ladder
Diocese VS 5a *** 853 56m • 4 Chair Ladder
Bishop's Rib E1 5b *** 658 53m • 3 Chair Ladder
Terrier's Tooth HS 4b *** 445 40m • 3 Chair Ladder
LAND'S END
The Cormorant's Bill E1 5b ** 53 28m Lands End
Johnstone's Route S 4a * 25 28m • 2 Lands End
World's End E1 5a * 37 25m Lands End
Zawn Face Route HVS 4c * 31 27m • 2 Lands End
Yankee Doodle E2 5b ** 28 ? Lands End
SENNEN
Double Overhang VS 4c ** 1066 18m Sennen
Staircase D ** 1519 18m Sennen
Corner Climb VD ** 1839 20m Sennen
Demo Route HS 4b *** 3312 19m • 2 Sennen
Zig Zag HVS 5a ** 546 18m Sennen
177 e, 424 stars 94,495 7,190m 391
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
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