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John Leonard teaching us the ways.
© samparsons, Jun 2014

Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2012 ticklist

contributed by Adam Perrett Feb/19

This ticklist is to help climbers keep up to date with the NEW SPORT routes added to Portland, Dorset since the publication of the Rockfax 2012 guidebook (Retro-bolted trad routes are also included).

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Note: Only showing summits, scrambles, winter routes, and low grade climbs

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 TOUT QUARRY
Ascension7a 16mTout Quarry
Stone Child6c+ -6mTout Quarry
Badger, Badger, Badger6b+ 27mTout Quarry
Still Falling7a 1?Tout Quarry
 BLACKNOR FAR NORTH - FALLAWAY BLOCK
It's the End of the World as we Know it (and I Feel Fine)5a 11?Blacknor North
Unprecedented Times6a 11?Blacknor North
Enlightenment (Sport)6a 11?Blacknor North
The Escape Route6c 3?Blacknor North
 BLACKNOR FAR NORTH - PIT PROP SOUTH WING
The Ivanator6b 5?Blacknor North
Blown Away6c+ 1?Blacknor North
The Blacknor Lemmings5b 9?Blacknor North
Walking on Broken Glass6b+ 2?Blacknor North
The Notorious Ivy G5b 6?Blacknor North
I Spy Gaz Fry5c 5?Blacknor North
Princess Consuela Bananahammock6a+ 6?Blacknor North
A Highway With No One On It6b 2?Blacknor North
One Armed Bandit5c 6?Blacknor North
The Mighty Midget6b+ 2?Blacknor North
 BLACKNOR NORTH - CLIFF TOP QUARRY
Ohana4a 5?Blacknor North
The Adventure Begins3a 5?Blacknor North
The Man in the Moon6a 5?Blacknor North
Wet Pubs are Just a Memory5a 5?Blacknor North
 BLACKNOR CENTRAL
I Don't Have a Spoiler so I Just Leave My Boot Open6b *4516mBlacknor Central
Solstice Arête7a+ 526mBlacknor Central
Madame Butterfly6a+ 2025mBlacknor Central
Dust in the Wind5c *2132mBlacknor Central
Summer Wine6a **1520mBlacknor Central
The Thin Edge of the Wedge6a+ *1620mBlacknor Central
Rise of Iron6a+ 1120mBlacknor Central
Electric Brae6b+ 220mBlacknor Central
Elusive Butterfly6b+ *420mBlacknor Central
Gone Amongst Innocent Angels6b **8029mBlacknor Central
Up Lift Finish6b+ **1229mBlacknor Central
 BLACKNOR BEACH
Diamond in the Rough7a+ **16mBlacknor Beach
Multi-Bitchin'5c **835m• 2Blacknor Beach
Your Mum's So Wet6b *322mBlacknor Beach
Banana Sambuca4c 208mBlacknor Beach
Shelly3a 247mBlacknor Beach
Subtitles for the Hard of Thinking3a 255mBlacknor Beach
 BLACKNOR SOUTH - SACRED ANGEL AREA
Northern Soul7a+ 3?Blacknor South
Southern Twist7b *7?Blacknor South
All Things Being Equal6b 42?Blacknor South
Eating Bush5a 236?Blacknor South
Princess Bolting3c 23014mBlacknor South
Jutland4a 406?Blacknor South
Beware of the Rungis5c 78?Blacknor South
Pedagogy6a 698mBlacknor South
There's Something To Bite On6a *3215mBlacknor South
That Untravelled World6b 1?Blacknor South
 BLACKNOR SOUTH - SHARBUTTS QUARRY
Ohhh Kaya6c 11?Blacknor South
Evie's Constance5c *134mBlacknor South
 BLACKNOR FAR SOUTH
Battle Against Time5c *5521mBlacknor Far South
Six Go Mad in Sorrento6a *39?Blacknor Far South
Wubba Lubba Dub Dub!6a *3921mBlacknor Far South
Year of the Cat6a+ 2021mBlacknor Far South
Spanish Eyes6a+ *3821mBlacknor Far South
On the Edge of a Storm5c *5617mBlacknor Far South
In the Eye of a Storm6c+ *1121mBlacknor Far South
Not the Dark Side3a 3214mBlacknor Far South
No Idea6c+ 1?Blacknor Far South
Invictus7b **1820mBlacknor Far South
 BATTLESHIP EDGE
Eighth Wonder5c *3910mBattleship Edge
Sweeter than Honey (Link Up)6a -?Battleship Edge
Making Smiles (Link up)5c 2?Battleship Edge
Skateboard to Oblivion5c *7212mBattleship Edge
It's All Good4b 30?Battleship Edge
Persistence is Futile6b 8?Battleship Edge
Misty Monday3b 20?Battleship Edge
Guerrillas in the Myst4c 14?Battleship Edge
High Jinks (Link up Traverse)5c 1?• 3Battleship Edge
The Scroobious Pip6b 7?Battleship Edge
Solar Deprivation6a 8?Battleship Edge
 BATTLESHIP BACK CLIFF
Superfast6c 88mBattleship Back...
Megahurts6c+ 67mBattleship Back...
Terrorbyte6b+ 77mBattleship Back...
 BATTLESHIP BLOCK - SEAWARD FACE
Diamonds and Rust6a+ -?• 2Battleship Back...
Reach Out5b 1?Battleship Back...
 BATTLESHIP BACK CLIFF - THE VERANDA
Lazy Robs and Frightful Lobs5c *1615mBattleship Back...
Thin on Top6b+ 708mBattleship Back...
Samphire and Steel5a 806mBattleship Back...
More Soap, Less Shampoo4c 868mBattleship Back...
 BATTLESHIP BACK CLIFF - BRONTOSAURUS WALL
A Compromise That Satisfies Nobody3b 156mBattleship Back...
Dust, Sweat and Beers4a 156mBattleship Back...
Cosmic Brontosaurus5a 156mBattleship Back...
Cheers Neil5b 126mBattleship Back...
Inverted Goat5b 146mBattleship Back...
Bucking Bronto4b 156mBattleship Back...
 WALLSEND NORTH - SO HARDCORE AREA
One Bolt Ward7b *47mWallsend North
 WALLSEND NORTH - UNDERLAND AREA
Riding the Dinosaur2c ***148mWallsend North
Wish You Were Here4c 108mWallsend North
Bright as a Box of Birds6a 128mWallsend North
Where Did It All Go Right?6a+ 58mWallsend North
 WALLSEND NORTH - UNSUNG AREA
The Sixteen Dollar Man6b+ 37mWallsend North
Dodo's Delight6b 159mWallsend North
Portsea Road7a 713mWallsend North
Dodo's Revenge7a 411mWallsend North
Smug Mode Enabled6b 117mWallsend North
The Contortionist7a+ 113mWallsend North
 WALLSEND NORTH - SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS
The Craic6a 5?Wallsend North
Breakfast at Wendy’s6a 5?Wallsend North
 WALLSEND SOUTH - TRAD FREE WORLD
Queen of a Distant Country6b+ 2?Wallsend South
Delta of Venus6b+ 2?Wallsend South
 COASTGUARD NORTH - WAX MUSEUM
Life in a Northern Town6b 4?Coastguard North
Witness the Wetness8b -?Coastguard North
Golden Groove6a+ *423mCoastguard North
 COASTGUARD SOUTH - THE AERIALS
Rude Not To5a 426mCoastguard South
My Lovely Joey5a 447mCoastguard South
The Tail of Two Ends6b+ 187mCoastguard South
Jog on Doris4c 508mCoastguard South
Chalkings of a Madman6a 458mCoastguard South
Climb It Like You Stole It6b 278mCoastguard South
Where's Pablo's Phone?6a+ 218mCoastguard South
Rigor Tortoise6b+ 158mCoastguard South
A Time of Gifts4a 268mCoastguard South
Old Tom Bombadil5a 2210mCoastguard South
Embrace of an Endless Ocean5c 2510mCoastguard South
Diving for Pearls6b+ 512mCoastguard South
 COOL VIBE AREA - CAVE HOLE
Prince of Tides5b *38mCave Hole
Escape from Davy Jones’ Locker3b 38mCave Hole
This is the Sea4a 38mCave Hole
Carenza3b 38mCave Hole
Stone Bridge5c *2?Cave Hole
The Shambles5a 410mCave Hole
Skylark4b *310mCave Hole
Now, Voyager6a *19mCave Hole
Action Man6b+ 19mCave Hole
And Then There Were Two4b 58mCave Hole
 BEESTON CLIFF - LIMEKILN CAVE AREA
Feeling Rusty5c 210mBeeston Cliff
Sword at Sunset6b 212mBeeston Cliff
The Lantern Bearers6a 110mBeeston Cliff
Love of Life5c 210mBeeston Cliff
The Eagle of the Ninth6a 210mBeeston Cliff
 CHEYNE WEARS - GODNOR FAR NORTH
Quality Street (Link up traverse)5c 2?• 3Cheyne Weares Area
 CHEYNE WEARS - NEDDYFIELDS MAIN CLIFF
Prestige Worldwide6b 1915mCheyne Weares Area
Jungle VIP5c 6015mCheyne Weares Area
New Toys3c 4610mCheyne Weares Area
Outside Left Arête4b *77?Cheyne Weares Area
Crush with Eyeliner (Sport)5b *68?Cheyne Weares Area
The Wilsonator6b 11913mCheyne Weares Area
Jobby's Leaving Gift5b 1358mCheyne Weares Area
Joe Stole My Route5b 988mCheyne Weares Area
 CHEYNE WEARS - DUNGECROFT QUARRY
Piece of Cake3b 69?Cheyne Weares Area
Received Wisdom6a 65?Cheyne Weares Area
Two Sixths4c 66?Cheyne Weares Area
Room for a Little'un?5a 68?Cheyne Weares Area
Ladder of Desire5c 74?Cheyne Weares Area
Splendid Vista5b 74?Cheyne Weares Area
Black Leather Rock6a+ 44?Cheyne Weares Area
Bain't no Coastpath 'ere!6a+ 32?Cheyne Weares Area
Welcome to Las Vegas, Mark6a 36?Cheyne Weares Area
Chandelier6b+ 47mCheyne Weares Area
I Fell in Love with Uranus6b 67mCheyne Weares Area
Crimping the Ephemeral6c 10?Cheyne Weares Area
The Tooth Clown5c 86mCheyne Weares Area
Viagra Wall6c+ 58mCheyne Weares Area
Jaguar Skills6c+ 77mCheyne Weares Area
Last Ditch Effort5b 138mCheyne Weares Area
Buzzin'6b+ 96mCheyne Weares Area
Read the Sign5b 216mCheyne Weares Area
The Hangover6a 257mCheyne Weares Area
Suspiria de Profundis6b 157mCheyne Weares Area
Slap and Tickle6a+ 177mCheyne Weares Area
 CHEYNE WEARS - THE LOST VALLEY - SARAH'S SLAB
There and Back AgainS 3?Southwell Landslips
Ledgendary3b 26?Southwell Landslips
A Day Like Today5a 23?Southwell Landslips
If Banksy did Bolting...5b 18?Southwell Landslips
Somewhere Only We Know5c 16?Southwell Landslips
The Dark End of the Street6a+ 18?Southwell Landslips
Monomania6a 15?Southwell Landslips
Cloudburst5b 13?Southwell Landslips
Jodie Ball; Rock Dodger5a 19?Southwell Landslips
Who ate all the Pies?!5c 23?Southwell Landslips
Falling in Style4b 22?Southwell Landslips
 CHEYNE WEARS - THE LOST VALLEY - BACK WALL
Slippery When Wet5b 18?Southwell Landslips
Trypophobia6c 5?Southwell Landslips
Blame it on the Pangolins7a 3?Southwell Landslips
Core Values6a+ 12?Southwell Landslips
Hailstones Keep Falling on my Head6a+ 9?Southwell Landslips
The Jamiroquai Move6b+ 5?Southwell Landslips
Supermassive Back Hole6b 6?Southwell Landslips
Triceratops in A Skip6b *3?Southwell Landslips
The Special Branch6a+ 39mSouthwell Landslips
Fallen Angel5a 137mSouthwell Landslips
Heavens Above7b 17mSouthwell Landslips
Marry Me in Vegas?7b 410mSouthwell Landslips
Even Nicer6b 5?Southwell Landslips
Birdie Num Num6c+ 6?Southwell Landslips
Promethean Flame6a 6?• 2Southwell Landslips
Tactical Nuclear Penguin6b 64?Southwell Landslips
 CHEYNE WEARS - THE LOST VALLEY - NEAPOLITAN SLAB
Psycho Driller4c 15?Southwell Landslips
Lush5c *1319mSouthwell Landslips
Head in a Bush3c 1628mSouthwell Landslips
The Angel from my Nightmare3a 1488mSouthwell Landslips
 THE NEW CUTTINGS
Out with the Old6b 188mThe New Cuttings
In with the New6c *108mThe New Cuttings
Winnie the Pooh5b 188mThe New Cuttings
Head of Steam6b+ *78mThe New Cuttings
Sublimation Arête6b 297mThe New Cuttings
Magic Roundabout6b+ -?The New Cuttings
The Fat Controller6b+ 8?The New Cuttings
Descent Horizon6a+ 258mThe New Cuttings
Julia Edwards6c *15?The New Cuttings
Ahead of the Curve6b+ *68mThe New Cuttings
Learning Curve6a+ **318mThe New Cuttings
Cold Fusion6a *316mThe New Cuttings
The Man Who Can’t be Moved6c+ 38mThe New Cuttings
 THE CUTTINGS
Sean4c 389mThe Cuttings
Died in Your Arms6c **28?The Cuttings
The Mermaid7a 17?The Cuttings
The Mantelist6b 42?The Cuttings
Dignity5c 8611mThe Cuttings
Bridget Riley6b+ **5715mThe Cuttings
Looking for Love6b *56?The Cuttings
Chasing Highs7b+ **415mThe Cuttings
Marti Chef7b *20?The Cuttings
So Long, Marianne6c 21?The Cuttings
Rules is Rules6b+ 77?The Cuttings
For Michèle6a 85?The Cuttings
 THE CUTTINGS - THE DELL
Sjambok the Skelem4c 619mThe Cuttings
The Naughty Corner4a 7711mThe Cuttings
West of Vanity Fare6b 3312mThe Cuttings
Hot Fuzz5c 3710mThe Cuttings
Don't Bring Your Mum2a 246mThe Cuttings
 THE CUTTINGS - THE BOWER
All Bowered Out6a *25?The Cuttings
50!3b 50?The Cuttings
25!4a 53?The Cuttings
Underbower5c 45?The Cuttings
Like-minded Folk6a 49?The Cuttings
 NICODEMUS KNOB - KNOB HEAD
The Prow5a 208mNicodemus Knob
Less is More6b 78mNicodemus Knob
The Wharncliffe Boys4b 258mNicodemus Knob
If a Great Wave Shall Fall6b 78mNicodemus Knob
Nebbin the Knob6b 138mNicodemus Knob
Himmelsweg6b 118mNicodemus Knob
A Belly Full of Bad Apples6a 128mNicodemus Knob
Honorary Boy3c 248mNicodemus Knob
The Clitheroe Kid4a 238mNicodemus Knob
Begin at Fifty4b 512mNicodemus Knob
Not saying much5a 512mNicodemus Knob
Piss in Peace5c 6?Nicodemus Knob
Farval5c 11?Nicodemus Knob
To the Moon and Back6a 88mNicodemus Knob
Crystal Tipps6b+ 28mNicodemus Knob
The Weymouth Girls5b 108mNicodemus Knob
Nowhereisland5a 8?Nicodemus Knob
 NICODEMUS KNOB - KNOB END
High Above the Mucky Muck5b 68mNicodemus Knob
Bloodline6a 98mNicodemus Knob
Rosie the Riveter4b 78mNicodemus Knob
Beautifully Bolted by the Portland Psychos3c 78mNicodemus Knob
58 stars6,4181,555m• 256
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