Lonely Loch Cuaich (formerly Quoich) reaches west into the rugged hills of Knoydart's Rough Bounds, a classic west highland skyline that speaks of adventure and adversity. North of the loch, the gentler slopes may lack such promise, but once height is gained – an ascent of remarkable ease on one of the finest historic stalker’s paths anywhere – the true quality of Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach is revealed. Striding high above a series of craggy northern corries, this Munro pair offers a grand ridge walk to match any in the west, with spacious views out along the loch to that summit-crowded horizon.
Fetching Map
Detailed description
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NH0291103018 Opposite the layby is a narrow path, which climbs through dense rhododendrons, survivors from the local lodge now drowned in the waters of the expanded loch. The undergrowth soon thins. Pass under a pylon line, and soon afterwards the path leaves the Allt Coire Peitireach, cutting left to zigzag up the hillside. Built in sympathy with the contours, and putting today's brutal bulldozed estate and hydro tracks to shame, this handmade stalkers' trail gives a quick ascent up steep slopes onto the ridge of Druim Seileach.
2
NH0293304839 The path traverses the steep west flank of the ridge in grand fashion to reach a grassy saddle. Pass a little stone-walled shooter's 'nest', then zigzag up stony slopes to reach the fore-summit of Gleouraich. Follow the ridge rightwards to reach the cairn marking the true top. This hill has it all: as well as every vowel, it's also quite the viewpoint. On the right day you can have a good game of name that mountain (starter for ten: the big hunchback is Ben Nevis; the jaggedy mass is the Skye Cuillin; the pointy one down the loch is Sgurr na Ciche).
3
NH0394505341 Follow the corrie edge in an airy position onto the summit of Creag Coire Fiar Bhealaich. Descent from here is steep and rocky, with a crag to take care of on the left flank, and the occasional steadying hand required. Drop to a low col, the Fiar Bhealaich, which offers a possible bad weather escape route south into Coire Dubh (though it looks boggy).
4
NH0548504802 The path now winds up slopes of stones and grass, skirting the edge of two wild corries to reach the western top of Spidean Mialach. Marked with a tall thin cairn and a windbreak, the main summit is a short way to the east, along the rim of the very impressive Coire an Spidein.
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NH0658604304 Descend southwest on a clear trail. Alternately rough and boggy, this makes a long descending diagonal traverse across the grassy southern flank of the hill to reach a soggy saddle northwest of Loch Fearna. Some guidebooks advise heading straight to the road from here, but the more direct route back goes west into the lower reaches of Coire Dubh/Coire Mhail. The path is obvious, but wet and peaty. Pass out of the corrie, then descend a little more steeply to go back under the pylon line, then fight through the rhododendron barrier to rejoin the road near the start point.
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Further Routes
by Dan Bailey UKH
- East Ridge of Beinn a' Chaorainn and Beinn Teallach 21 Jan
- A' Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-choire 4 Dec, 2023
- Meall na Teanga & Sron a' Choire Ghairbh - The Loch Lochy Munros 6 Nov, 2023
- Bynack More 19 Oct, 2023
- Beinn a' Mhuinidh 4 Oct, 2023
I remember this well. The hardest part was finding the start of the path in among the rhododendrons. As you say, the stalker's path is a marvel, and makes the ascent a joy.
These hills are far, far better from the North, but the trade route as described here is the easiest way; no walk-in, no river crossing, and no Glen level trudge back, hence always get regurgitated (sorry Dan).
These hills have a chalk and cheese character the south open slopes wide vistas and the very good stalkers path with easy access The North craggy, rugged and complex, but with harder access, and pulls you back for further exploration.
From the North you feel much more remote, you have the choice of ridges bounding fine corries to ascend and descend (rather than open slopes) which are rarely travelled, there is scope for low commitment outcrop slabby scrambling on exceptionally good rock, take it or leave it terrain, and more entertaining than the south by a long way, on the lower sections approaching to the central ridge on Mailach (and probably elsewhere). The central ridge is then is narrow enough to provide good mountaineering type fun in a wild setting in Winter, or a surprise in Summer (granted it’s no Forcan Ridge). You get to see into and appreciate these northern corries far more than the standard route (I must go back and bivi in them) and there are surprising stalkers paths (but not as good as the southern flank).
But it’s a long day and doesn’t fit with a ‘ticking’ ethos which the south approach caters for. For those that want to explore and do not need or want to follow ‘a trade route’ you will not be disappointed. Crocs or sandals might come in handy for the river.
Where would you start to do it from from the North? Looking at the map, would one option be to walk up Glen Quoich on the west side of the loch to Alltbeithe and then along Easter Glen Quoich for 3-4 miles or so before heading south up Spidean Mialach?
Alternatively, kayak along Loch Loyne and approach from the east. Oh to be young and mobile ...
I've often looked at the north side ridges and wondered, but it's a long way in from any point, as you say. Sure I'll get there eventually. They do sound good.
I'm not sure it's fair to dismiss the south side as just for tickers though. That stalker's path ascent is a real highlight, the view up the loch is fantastic, and it's a quick way to the summit ridges where the topography does get interesting.
Besides which not even the south side is exactly convenience bagging is it? The car park is quite a long way from anywhere.
We’ve done them from the north in conjunction with an overnight camp and the south sheil ridge. Great trip, I would be happy to do an article on it if you wish.