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Rockfax Description
Fantastic mid grade-ice climbing
1) 2, 45m. Climb easy ice to a steepening
2) 3, 45m. Follow more ice to a large ledge
3) 4, 45m. Climb the steep left-hand icefall to gain a large ledge
4) 3, 45m. Continue up a right facing groove to gain easy snowy ground
5) 3, 45m. Climb easy snow then pass a steeper bulge-section to gain the upper gully
6) 2, 120m. Aim up and left and follow steep snowy ground to the summit. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ellis Bird 4 Mar, 2018 AltLd Some variation to the right linking a variety of excellent pitches up to grade 4/5
Some variation to the right linking a variety of excellent pitches up to grade 4/5
Hidden ??, 2018 AltLd O/S
frost 12 Feb, 2015 Solo Exciting
Exciting
blahblahblah 7 Mar, 2013 Lead dnf soloed first pitch - led 60m of awful ice and soft snow with not a lot of pro ... figured we were at the top of pitch 3 - abbed off old piton which was bending under load ... backed up with a shiny new one we manged to bang in ...
with Scott Bradshaw, Mike McKenna
soloed first pitch - led 60m of awful ice and soft snow with not a lot of pro ... figured we were at the top of pitch 3 - abbed off old piton which was bending under load ... backed up with a shiny new one we manged to bang in ...
with Scott Bradshaw, Mike McKenna
augustus trout 30 Jan, 2011 2nd dnf quite lean but do'able gave up due to late start.
with Al Metelko
quite lean but do'able gave up due to late start.
with Al Metelko
Hjort 9 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Nigel Milner
with Nigel Milner
Luke Brooks H ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
adie84 ??, 2011 -
Adam Booth 18 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Major wade to the bottom. Variation first pitch, involving a slightly frightening unprotected turf corner (?V). Cracking route.
with Tom Jumar, Misha
Major wade to the bottom. Variation first pitch, involving a slightly frightening unprotected turf corner (?V). Cracking route.
with Tom Jumar, Misha
Misha H 18 Dec, 2010 2nd rpt 2.5hrs to slog through shin to knee deep fresh snow into the bowl below the crag - fortunately other teams had already broken trail but it wasn't a proper path. Met Rich Stone - think he said it was the hardest approach he's ever experienced. With tonnes of fresh snow, Icefall was one of the few routes going. Adam did a variation start to the right of P1, which had some good, bold mixed climbing and a worrying section of rotten snow ice which came away under Tom and me in large chunks, exposing rotting goo. Tom led P2, which had good ice. I 'led' the slog to the top. Good to get something done considering the conditions. Adam suggested walking off along the ridge, which seemed like a good idea but we ended up going too far left as visibility was poor and we didn't wanted to keep away from the crag. Eventually realised that we had dropped into the wrong valley to the left (looking out) of the ridge. Wasn't much of an issue though, just added a bit of time to the slog. Thanks to Tom for breaking trail most of the way.
with Adam Booth, Tom
2.5hrs to slog through shin to knee deep fresh snow into the bowl below the crag - fortunately other teams had already broken trail but it wasn't a proper path. Met Rich Stone - think he said it was the hardest approach he's ever experienced. With tonnes of fresh snow, Icefall was one of the few routes going. Adam did a variation start to the right of P1, which had some good, bold mixed climbing and a worrying section of rotten snow ice which came away under Tom and me in large chunks, exposing rotting goo. Tom led P2, which had good ice. I 'led' the slog to the top. Good to get something done considering the conditions. Adam suggested walking off along the ridge, which seemed like a good idea but we ended up going too far left as visibility was poor and we didn't wanted to keep away from the crag. Eventually realised that we had dropped into the wrong valley to the left (looking out) of the ridge. Wasn't much of an issue though, just added a bit of time to the slog. Thanks to Tom for breaking trail most of the way.
with Adam Booth, Tom
HIGHTOWER 18 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Left hand. Two good, but poorly protected pitches, and a lot of swimming in snow. Good though.
with Dave Gleave
Left hand. Two good, but poorly protected pitches, and a lot of swimming in snow. Good though.
with Dave Gleave
Hidden 8 Dec, 2010 Lead
Noodles 8 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Great climb, first ascent this season?
with Wurzel
Great climb, first ascent this season?
with Wurzel
Misha H 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Had hoped to do a big mixed route but turf was only half-frozen and snow wasn't frozen at all, so disintegrating ice was the only option. Phil led a nice pitch of IV just to the right of the direct start to Western Gully. A scrappy mixed pitch got us to the terrace. Three easy traversing pitches led right to the bottom of the main ice pitches of Icefall Gully, which were just about hanging on. Fairly easy climbing which felt quite serious due to often thin ice and little good gear - IV 3? Led first ice pitch, Phil did the second and after that we had three more pitches and some moving together over easy ground to emerge into a howling wind. Got a lift to Gerlan in the morning, so opted for a quick descent into Ogwen, then hitched to Capel and got a taxi back to Nant Peris from Plas-y-Brenin. Last Welsh winter route of the season - a pity, but what an amazing season it has been!
Had hoped to do a big mixed route but turf was only half-frozen and snow wasn't frozen at all, so disintegrating ice was the only option. Phil led a nice pitch of IV just to the right of the direct start to Western Gully. A scrappy mixed pitch got us to the terrace. Three easy traversing pitches led right to the bottom of the main ice pitches of Icefall Gully, which were just about hanging on. Fairly easy climbing which felt quite serious due to often thin ice and little good gear - IV 3? Led first ice pitch, Phil did the second and after that we had three more pitches and some moving together over easy ground to emerge into a howling wind. Got a lift to Gerlan in the morning, so opted for a quick descent into Ogwen, then hitched to Capel and got a taxi back to Nant Peris from Plas-y-Brenin. Last Welsh winter route of the season - a pity, but what an amazing season it has been!
philhilo 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Crag in clag. Did a very good ice pitch (although middle section collapsing), then mixed mushy veg pitch to get onto the terrace. Turf not consistantly frozen, thin ice gone so did three pitches traversing right (underneath Somme-disintegrating) to Icefall Gully. Bottom pitch a little suspect but second pitch fat, solid and excellent. Then 3 1/2 pitches of 'easy ground', boring! Topped out up vertical snow into dark icy maelstrom! Got off top as quick as poss.
with Misha
Crag in clag. Did a very good ice pitch (although middle section collapsing), then mixed mushy veg pitch to get onto the terrace. Turf not consistantly frozen, thin ice gone so did three pitches traversing right (underneath Somme-disintegrating) to Icefall Gully. Bottom pitch a little suspect but second pitch fat, solid and excellent. Then 3 1/2 pitches of 'easy ground', boring! Topped out up vertical snow into dark icy maelstrom! Got off top as quick as poss.
with Misha
Hidden 11 Mar, 2010 AltLd
ruaidh 7 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Wonderful route. Beautiful alpine conditions. Steady grade IV all the way up, steepish P3, plenty of good ice.
with Zoe
Wonderful route. Beautiful alpine conditions. Steady grade IV all the way up, steepish P3, plenty of good ice.
with Zoe
kenneM ? Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Davey Luke
with Davey Luke
Hidden 14 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
mux 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd rpt did a veriation on pitch two taking the steep v groove right of the right hand start. crap ice but good mixed above..little gear about v.
with Adam
did a veriation on pitch two taking the steep v groove right of the right hand start. crap ice but good mixed above..little gear about v.
with Adam
Luke Brooks H 31 Dec, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 31 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S
rob1 ? Jan, 2009 AltLd
with Tom Martin
with Tom Martin
Tim Sparrow ? Jan, 2007 - Falling down as we climbed.
with Ben W
Falling down as we climbed.
with Ben W
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
mux ??, 2005 AltLd O/S great nic ...
with Tom and James
great nic ...
with Tom and James
NickJH ? Feb, 2004 AltLd O/S
with CBradley
with CBradley
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead O/S
t p hubbard ??, 2003 -
Hidden ? Jan, 2000 AltLd O/S
zero six ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ? Jan, 1996 AltLd
with Duncan Nicol
with Duncan Nicol
Hidden 9 Feb, 1991 Lead
Hidden 25 Jan, 1986 AltLd
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 5
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Snowdrop

Grade: IV ***
(Clogwyn y Garnedd)