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250m, 6 pitches. A route which tackles the buttress between Gallipoli and No Man’s Land utilizing the start climbed by C Parkin and R Townsend in 1997 (named as Krithia). The off-width on pitch 4 was said to be ‘un-gradable’ by Steve Long after he followed it in the dark.
Grades of pitches: 6,6,4,6,3,2

Starts in the CG basis above the CG direct start. 15m left of the start to Gallipoli below a short pillar of rock forming a minor arête. A good crack 4m right provides a bomber belay.

1. 40m 6 Climb the right side of the pillar to its top, spike, use a downward pointing fang to move right to two small protruding fins (pro) then direct to more abundant turf pulling right to exit onto laid back terrain. Up this to belay as for Gallipoli below a small Triangular roof, pegs useful.
2. 50m 6 Move left along Gallipoli traverse a few metres until easy turf allows a diagonal ascent until level with a turf traverse line below a small band of overhangs leads right to more amenable ground. Ascend passing short wide crack until a move left on to a ramp leads to a belay ledge at the base of large prominent blocks.
3. 15m 4 Climb blocks and the wall above to ledge below the off-width.
4. 20m 6 Ascend the off-width to a wide ledge. Top tip; haul the sacs.
5. 50m 3 Passing a ‘stuck on’ flake and cracks reach the easier ground on No Man’s Land.Continue up corners to base of a short wall.
6. 50m 2 Climb the wall and ground above to pass the final tower on its left. Block belay on top of the tower.
7. 40m 1 From the top of the tower traverse the connecting ridge and slope to the plateau.

Chris Parkin & Steve Long 09/Jan/2010.


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Route of Interest

Scott Report

Grade: VII ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))