Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

15m.

Rockfax Description
The left-facing corner has some interesting moves. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious corner/groove is very worthwhile, providing some interesting technical bridging: careful footwork required.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , Orange Spot South Wales Sport , Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport

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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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Redpoint
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