UKH

55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wonderful route that is one of the finest limestone Hard Severe's in the UK. Continually interesting climbing, route finding and all on great rock. Start under a right-facing corner at the top of an earth bank.
1) 4b, 34m. Climb the corner until just above an overlap (peg on the left wall). Move left to the arete and make a hard pull up onto a ledge. Ascend easier ground leftwards up a groove to a prominent small tree. Traverse left for 3m until it is possible to step up onto the belay ledge (pegs).
2) 4b, 20m. Step up to the break and traverse right to a peg just out of reach. Step up and clip the peg, then step back down and traverse around the nose to better holds. Climb up and left to a peg, and continue to a small ledge. Traverse slightly left and step up into a sentry box (peg). Pull over the small overhang at the top of the sentry box from where easier climbing gains the large finishing ledge and two small trees.
Descent - Scramble leftwards for around 50m over a series of ledges to gain the cliff top path. It is possible to abseil back down with 60m double ropes from trees on the finishing ledge (avoid abseiling if any other climbers are on the route). © Rockfax

Ticklists

50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Wintours Leap easy multipitch, Orange Spot Lower Wye, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, CUMC Ticklist, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Welcome to CUMC, Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, Ultimate HS ticklist, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below), The post lockdown local list

Feedback

User Date Notes
emmaharrington 6 Jul Show βeta
βeta: First pitch: Awkward move, moving from the crack out left to the face with the peg. Second pitch: Exposed and a bit run-out, with pegs. Maybe a bit harder than other HS 4b's we've done. We abseiled back down from the two trees on the right at the top of the 2nd pitch (we had 60 m ropes).
Show beta
βeta: First pitch: Awkward move, moving from the crack out left to the face with the peg. Second pitch: Exposed and a bit run-out, with pegs. Maybe a bit harder than other HS 4b's we've done. We abseiled back down from the two trees on the right at the top of the 2nd pitch (we had 60 m ropes).
widdlestickmcpoos 24 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Can belay of tat and mailon, no need to walk off. Need 50m ropes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can belay of tat and mailon, no need to walk off. Need 50m ropes.
miriamclaire 30 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I led first pitch, Rob led the second.
Show beta
βeta: I led first pitch, Rob led the second.
Ander 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The block just after the tree on pitch 1 is loose. A nut moved it, and it wobbled when used as a hand hold from below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block just after the tree on pitch 1 is loose. A nut moved it, and it wobbled when used as a hand hold from below.
jotunscope 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The pegs look really good and solid. Awesome route and quite serious in places.
Show beta
βeta: The pegs look really good and solid. Awesome route and quite serious in places.
Salm0n 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock few meters up on left face, don't place any gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock few meters up on left face, don't place any gear.
Dom Goodwin 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Peg above the nose on P2 seems wobbly. Just in case it wasn’t already scary enough!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Peg above the nose on P2 seems wobbly. Just in case it wasn’t already scary enough!
CasualLime 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As you start up the corner and move out left towards the peg. Please be aware that the triangular block you put your left hand on (see picture on page 147 of 2007 Climbers Club guide) is very loose. Be careful pulling on it. DO NOT slot any gear behind it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As you start up the corner and move out left towards the peg. Please be aware that the triangular block you put your left hand on (see picture on page 147 of 2007 Climbers Club guide) is very loose. Be careful pulling on it. DO NOT slot any gear behind it.

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