UKH Hills - 'North Buttress Arête Direct'

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10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. A great route though with a bold start. Pull onto the arete and climb its bulging left-hand side throughout. Thought by some to be the best route on the cliff. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Every Climb at Windgather , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Windgather Rocks , Adele & Dave , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Windgather Solo Challenge

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User	Date		Notes
Roxyclimbs	29 May	Show βeta βeta: Awful route, overrated, poorly protected but the grade suggests it’s well protected… might as well just be a solo	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Awful route, overrated, poorly protected but the grade suggests it’s well protected… might as well just be a solo
LakesWinter	22 Apr, 2007	Show βeta βeta: This is the best route on the cliff!
Show beta βeta: This is the best route on the cliff!
Iain Thow	19 Mar, 2007	Show βeta βeta: The runner in the bottom pocket just gets in the way & is too low to protect the hard bit, just apply a bit of oomph, the jugs do turn up after the reach, honest	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The runner in the bottom pocket just gets in the way & is too low to protect the hard bit, just apply a bit of oomph, the jugs do turn up after the reach, honest
Col Allott	22 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: A wicked solo, Pretty scary but easily escapable if you have a look. Actually found it harder to lead cos I was hanging around for too long looking for gear placements. Best climb at Windgather.
Show beta βeta: A wicked solo, Pretty scary but easily escapable if you have a look. Actually found it harder to lead cos I was hanging around for too long looking for gear placements. Best climb at Windgather.
Simon Caldwell	12 Jul, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Worryingly poorly protected at the start, I didn't trust the cam in the pocket, but a step right allows a runner to be placed on the right of the arete. Once I'd summoned up the courage to go for it, I found the whole thing much easier than expected, while I'd love it if this were HVS I think it's no more than VS 4c.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Worryingly poorly protected at the start, I didn't trust the cam in the pocket, but a step right allows a runner to be placed on the right of the arete. Once I'd summoned up the courage to go for it, I found the whole thing much easier than expected, while I'd love it if this were HVS I think it's no more than VS 4c.
Reds	7 Jun, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Found it ok if you stick to the arete - although didn't find much protection. The dotted line in the guidebook seems to suggest you start left of the arete which I found terrifying for a VS!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Found it ok if you stick to the arete - although didn't find much protection. The dotted line in the guidebook seems to suggest you start left of the arete which I found terrifying for a VS!
Nick Smith - Climbers	2 Aug, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Probably the hardest of the VS routes at Windgather, with sustained and poorly protected climbing in its lower half. Perhaps even a soft HVS?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Probably the hardest of the VS routes at Windgather, with sustained and poorly protected climbing in its lower half. Perhaps even a soft HVS?

Logged Ascents

1358 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Windgather Rocks

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Western Grit Cover

Western Grit (2009)

Rockfax
By Chris Craggs and Alan James

Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches Cover

Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009)

British Mountaineering Council
By Niall Grimes

Guidebook correction for this climb

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