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Pair of kestrels are nesting above the trident block. Please avoid the route during this period.

from 14/06/2023 to 01/07/2023

 
20m.

Rockfax Description
From the foot of The Trident gain and follow the curving flake leftwards out into the middle of the wall (good gear - very hard to place) and climb this trending left again to the edge of the huge overhang and an easier finish. Maybe only 6b for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. Nick Plishko 1986.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
Jon Read 29 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Old comments now, but only one side of the conversation only partly made it to 2022! I think the original discussion was around what the story was with gear "placed from below" for the FA, as recording in the guide at the time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Old comments now, but only one side of the conversation only partly made it to 2022! I think the original discussion was around what the story was with gear "placed from below" for the FA, as recording in the guide at the time.
ste_d 3 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think it inappropriate use of this space. i thought this space was a forum to discuss routes? As Jon notes, the old moorland grit guide is quite vague about some of the 'antics' involved in first ascents...simply stating the protection was "cunningly placed from below" is very vague, perhaps due to that vagueness i was quite happy for another to pre-place my gear by ab prior to ascent, if i had known differently about what "cunningly placed from below" actually meant in practice i may have acted differently...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't think it inappropriate use of this space. i thought this space was a forum to discuss routes? As Jon notes, the old moorland grit guide is quite vague about some of the 'antics' involved in first ascents...simply stating the protection was "cunningly placed from below" is very vague, perhaps due to that vagueness i was quite happy for another to pre-place my gear by ab prior to ascent, if i had known differently about what "cunningly placed from below" actually meant in practice i may have acted differently...
Jon Read 5 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well, apologies if I've offended you in some way by asking questions, and relatively benign ones at that! Sheesh. Anyway, thank you for providing further details, which is what I was after in the first place. The comment in the last guide stated something like: wire preplaced with stick. Not having the good fortune to be involved with the first ascent, and reading of other routes at the same crag employing fishing rods to clip bolts(!), I had no idea how long a stick is. These sort of details matter when (a) a new guide is being prepared and (b) trying to cultivate a ground-up approach. Kevin Thaw's comments above show that you don't need a stick, short or long. I'm just after the facts; no need to be touchy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well, apologies if I've offended you in some way by asking questions, and relatively benign ones at that! Sheesh. Anyway, thank you for providing further details, which is what I was after in the first place. The comment in the last guide stated something like: wire preplaced with stick. Not having the good fortune to be involved with the first ascent, and reading of other routes at the same crag employing fishing rods to clip bolts(!), I had no idea how long a stick is. These sort of details matter when (a) a new guide is being prepared and (b) trying to cultivate a ground-up approach. Kevin Thaw's comments above show that you don't need a stick, short or long. I'm just after the facts; no need to be touchy.
Jon Read 21 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yes. Care to explain yourself?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes. Care to explain yourself?

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Route of Interest
Wristcutter's Lullaby

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Wimberry Rocks)

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