Restricted Access
The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.
Rockfax Description
A fine and popular route with just a couple of hard moves which are well protected by fixed gear. The first pitch feels quite pushy.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the shallow right-facing groove (polished) then trend left under the ivy on spaced jugs to reach a small exposed stance with good belays.
2) 5a, 15m. Passing the pothole involves an awkward and constricted traverse (threads) to reach a ledge. Step back to the left and finish up the hanging groove. An alternative finish out right ends up in an ugly shrubby gully and is best avoided. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Read, K.Beech (some aid) 1959.
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JHiley | 22 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Led P2. Threads were a faff to place as there were none in situ. P1 seemed quite sketch with steep, loose rock and poor gear options in the middle. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Led P2. Threads were a faff to place as there were none in situ. P1 seemed quite sketch with steep, loose rock and poor gear options in the middle. |
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| C May | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: No in situ gear. Tim lead in one pitch on twin ropes. Oddly polished with lots of loose bits. Great position for VS for need to be competent VS if out off by wobbly rock!! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: No in situ gear. Tim lead in one pitch on twin ropes. Oddly polished with lots of loose bits. Great position for VS for need to be competent VS if out off by wobbly rock!! |
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| andyblain | 11 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: No in situ threads on traverse | βeta? | |
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βeta: No in situ threads on traverse |
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| wjvt | 6 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Pulled off a jug the size of a grapefruit halfway up but the route isn\'t affected | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pulled off a jug the size of a grapefruit halfway up but the route isn't affected |
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| Ian Carr | 25 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Feels like HVS these days and in the heat of a very hot day. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Feels like HVS these days and in the heat of a very hot day. |
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| MNA123 | 22 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Really enjoyed this route, polished start but it's fine with a cool head. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really enjoyed this route, polished start but it's fine with a cool head. |
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| GrahamD | 13 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Probably loses a star for the starting polish. In situ tat (pitch 2) is no more but this makes little difference as you can put as much gear in as you like. I have to say I've done harder '5b' moves ! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Probably loses a star for the starting polish. In situ tat (pitch 2) is no more but this makes little difference as you can put as much gear in as you like. I have to say I've done harder '5b' moves ! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks
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The Delectable Variation
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lawrencefield)