Rockfax Description
The left-hand facet of the square buttress is split by a thin crack. Approach this via a short slab (awkward for the short and with poor protection), then climb it using the arete on the right as and when needed. A finish to the left extends the pleasure a bit. © Rockfax
FA. Eric Byne 1933.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , The Peak: Past and Present , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Adele & Dave , Wharncliffe Crags , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Routes Chloe would recommend , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Fakey Rocks | 18 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Removed a jammed nut from the beginning of the crack on sat 16 oct 2021. Happy to post it back to you.... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Removed a jammed nut from the beginning of the crack on sat 16 oct 2021. Happy to post it back to you.... |
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| kempy7 | 11 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Fun! | ||
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βeta: Fun! |
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| Fidget | 26 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: This becomes much harder if you have it in your head that you want to climb where the crack is, rather than climbing over at the arete :S | ||
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βeta: This becomes much harder if you have it in your head that you want to climb where the crack is, rather than climbing over at the arete :S |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: what a great route if you are moving up the grades. from below looks a lot harder so once you are on it and find all the jolds open up to you it's a treat. been back and climbed this 3 times still a top climb whatever grade you may have moved on up to | βeta? | |
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βeta: what a great route if you are moving up the grades. from below looks a lot harder so once you are on it and find all the jolds open up to you it's a treat. been back and climbed this 3 times still a top climb whatever grade you may have moved on up to |
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| Northern Mountain Monkey | 21 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Did I find a hidden hold? I thought it was a S 4b although I am 6'4'' so is it harder for the short? NMM | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did I find a hidden hold? I thought it was a S 4b although I am 6'4'' so is it harder for the short? NMM |
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| Alex Mason | 8 May, 2005 |
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βeta: yeah nice little lead bottom section quite airy! after the the moves flow so well! | βeta? | |
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βeta: yeah nice little lead bottom section quite airy! after the the moves flow so well! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 29 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Climbed it again on Saturday, and I still think it's harder than Himmelswillen. They're exactly equally as good ;-) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed it again on Saturday, and I still think it's harder than Himmelswillen. They're exactly equally as good ;-) |
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| Jus | 16 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Sorry Birkby, Tower Face rules! :o) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry Birkby, Tower Face rules! :o) |
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| Jon Greengrass | 26 May, 2004 |
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βeta: looks like a desperate finger crack from below, once up there hidden jugs abound. Very pleasant. a good safe lead | βeta? | |
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βeta: looks like a desperate finger crack from below, once up there hidden jugs abound. Very pleasant. a good safe lead |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 2 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Superb - a much better route than Himmelswillen! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb - a much better route than Himmelswillen! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wharncliffe Crags
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Mutiny Crack
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Burbage North)