12m.

Rockfax Description
The central arete gives a fine route, climbed on its left-hand side throughout. A distant side-runner is often used at E5, though the upper section remains bold. © Rockfax

FA. Terry Hirst (with side-runner) 1978. FA. Simon Jones (solo) 1992.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
simes303 25 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very very soft for E6. The low gear is bomber - friend 1.5 and medium sized wire - and definitely protects the crux. It's also on route, not "distant side runners" as in the description. I was having a bad day and slipped from the good hold on the arete before the big break and after the crux, and still didn't hit the ground. Its definitely a full three star route though and is probably easily onsightable as its obvious how to do it when you get there. Video here if you want to ruin your onsight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tdESQEihCw Cheers, Si.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very very soft for E6. The low gear is bomber - friend 1.5 and medium sized wire - and definitely protects the crux. It's also on route, not "distant side runners" as in the description. I was having a bad day and slipped from the good hold on the arete before the big break and after the crux, and still didn't hit the ground. Its definitely a full three star route though and is probably easily onsightable as its obvious how to do it when you get there. Video here if you want to ruin your onsight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tdESQEihCw Cheers, Si.
spidey 9 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 3 top ropes. Climbed it clean, felt ok.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3 top ropes. Climbed it clean, felt ok.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wharncliffe Crags

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 36
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nosferatu

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Burbage South Edge)

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