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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
A tremendous route of contrasting styles. The initial leaning wall is burly whilst the upper wall is technical. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker 16/Jul/1989.
Ticklists
Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| J1_TOV | 29 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: An alternative start to magnetic pull. Definitely no manufactured holds or cement on this route as a few comments suggested. Appears that they'd probably gone direct onto the blank looking streak (project) as opposed to taking the traverse right at around 6th or 7th clip (extend both for ease above), through the positive pockets. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An alternative start to magnetic pull. Definitely no manufactured holds or cement on this route as a few comments suggested. Appears that they'd probably gone direct onto the blank looking streak (project) as opposed to taking the traverse right at around 6th or 7th clip (extend both for ease above), through the positive pockets. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend South
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Wax Museum
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Coastguard North)