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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

11m.

Rockfax Description
Start up Come In Alone, Go Out Alone and from the top of its initial pillar make a fingery traverse right to the bottom of a groove. Take the technical groove to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The shallow groove in the middle wall to the left of No Soft Option. Take the bouldery start of Come In Alone, Go Out Alone to a stance on top of the initial pillar. A fingery traverse right leads to a tenuous position in the bottom of the groove, which is climbed via an intricate sequence to the break. Finish on good holds to the left of the corner.

FA. John Leonard 09/Sep/2017.

Ticklists

Portland 7a/+ , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mr_greenrose 8 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Feels quite poorly bolted. 2 bolts in the middle suggest one is not great, but no indication as to which. Also a fall in the crux sequence in the groove results in quite an aggressive swing, high potential for Inveriting or ankle damage.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Feels quite poorly bolted. 2 bolts in the middle suggest one is not great, but no indication as to which. Also a fall in the crux sequence in the groove results in quite an aggressive swing, high potential for Inveriting or ankle damage.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend North

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Acid Jazz Disco

Grade: 7a ***
(Wallsend North)

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