200m, 6 pitches.
A classic! A superb line of sustained layback flakes up the left hand side of the finger, the last one being poorly protected unless you have very big cams (Camalot 5 and/or 6) Approx 200m E1 5b or f6b. Pitch 4 can either be direct (f6c) or via the chimney 5
W Colonna, A Howard 10/Oct/1985.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cuthbert | 4 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Although a steady well protected line, every pitch offers up a challenge. Sometimes this due to the rock’s weirdness, sometimes it’s fierce, and ocassionally technical thin ( 1st pitch exit). There’s a case to be made for the assertion that the start of pitch 4 somewhat stains the experience (crazy sketch moves between badly placed pegs which could result in pretty bad fall- we frigged it). Otherwise my admiration goes out to those who have climbed pitch 5 without a cam 5 and 6. Seriously stiff ( more 6a+ than 5+), or just serious… | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Although a steady well protected line, every pitch offers up a challenge. Sometimes this due to the rock’s weirdness, sometimes it’s fierce, and ocassionally technical thin ( 1st pitch exit). There’s a case to be made for the assertion that the start of pitch 4 somewhat stains the experience (crazy sketch moves between badly placed pegs which could result in pretty bad fall- we frigged it). Otherwise my admiration goes out to those who have climbed pitch 5 without a cam 5 and 6. Seriously stiff ( more 6a+ than 5+), or just serious… |
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| Robert Durran | 17 Dec, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fourth time on this brilliant route. Since I last did it 7 years ago, the moves up to the second drilled peg have gone from technical but positive and secure to sandy and insecure. Couldn't justify the probable ankle breaking fall so pulled on and stood on the first peg which felt exciting enough. With the massively increased popularity of Rum.and its classics, other routes are also unfortunately showing signs of wear and increased sandiness in places. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fourth time on this brilliant route. Since I last did it 7 years ago, the moves up to the second drilled peg have gone from technical but positive and secure to sandy and insecure. Couldn't justify the probable ankle breaking fall so pulled on and stood on the first peg which felt exciting enough. With the massively increased popularity of Rum.and its classics, other routes are also unfortunately showing signs of wear and increased sandiness in places. |
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| Nathan Adam | 23 Jan, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top of pitch 4 is seems quite unstable so wouldn’t recommend placing any gear in the blocks. The large boulder below p5 is also loose and waiting to go! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The top of pitch 4 is seems quite unstable so wouldn’t recommend placing any gear in the blocks. The large boulder below p5 is also loose and waiting to go! |
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Route of Interest
Le Grec
Grade: TD ***
(Wadi Rum)