The finest route of its grade in the Dolomites? Judging from the crowds it would seem that many people agree! Despite the queues and the polish, there is no doubt that this route deserves its acclaim, with fantastic positions and breathtaking exposure at an accessible grade.
Start on the right side of the south face of Torre Delago. Take the large leftwards leading ramp towards the arete.
1) II, 30m. Follow the ledge left then climb an easy ramp still leftwards to a stance just right of the arete.
2) IV+, 30m. Climb juggy holds keeping just right of the arete, then at a peg move left to reach the arete proper. Follow this with the first taste of exposure to a ledge on the right.
3) IV, 25m. Move back left onto the arete, now with superb exposure, and skate up the polish to another ledge on the right.
4) IV, 25m. Back onto the arete for a few metres then enter a short corner on the right wall to reach a stance on the left.
5) IV, 25m. Follow a flake right, climb a pale slab direct then move back left towards the arete again.
6) III, 25m. Follow easier rock right to the crowded summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
South-West Arete, Delago Tower. Stroll from the Alberto Hut up and left to the ridge (15 mins). Follow the ridge, including a exposed and exciting stance on the edge of all things,. Spectacular views to the left and everywhere !!! My son's first Dolomitic summit !!(2 hours). Abseil rings in place.
Giovanni Battista Piaz, Francesco Jori, Irma Glaser Aug/1911.
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