Restricted Access

'Private Land' signs have appeared at some points along the boundary with the A635 road which has led to some confusion over whether access is permitted or not. This land is designated as Open Access and the public have a full legal right to access is for recreation on foot, including climbing. Please keep dogs on a lead to help avoid future difficulties.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb Forked Tongue then from a highish runner balance and teeter out left to the arete and a bold finish up its left-hand side. The peg on the next route should be avoided if at all possible. Slightly soft rock on the traverse. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Howard (reached by bolting the huge overhang) 1969. FFA. Steve Bancroft 1978.

Ticklists

Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , 100 Best Routes on Grit

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High E5
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High E4
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High 6b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bob Hope

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Dovestones Quarry)

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