UKH

100m, 4 pitches. From my Dad's recollection, the passing years may have affected the accuracy! "The start of the route was at a series of jammed boulders near the bottom of a zawn. To start the route we had to climb over one of these huge blocks and then descent the seaward side backwards until it was possible to stretch a leg out behind you to touch the wall that formed the (true) right wall of the zawn; this left you in a semi-splits position only able to touch one of the rocks with a hand; you had to rock over so that you could transfer to the face from the boulder. For the leader it was puzzling but for the second it was terrifying because the move had to be done with no protection and an angry sea awaiting you. A long traverse above overlaps ends when you reach the far side of a steep slab where a huge block has fallen out leaving a hole in the face. Blocking progress across this hole was a very large block of gneiss that clearly was going to fall into the sea. The move across the gap was outrageous; you had to lay away on the undercut base of the block until, in a very wide bridging move, you could get your left foot on the opposite side of the gap. By this time your body was more horizontal than vertical and you had to transfer your weight to the left foot while in this very exposed, very strenuous, horizontal layback position. In spite of being close to the belay this was the scariest single move I have ever done."

FA. Mick Tighe & Jim Patterson May/1979.

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Lewis & Harris starred VSs

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User Date Notes
Parkie 13 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route - took a while to convince myself that the step from the boulder was the right boulder - rain started on P2 and heaving for P3 and P4 - the move responded to undercling layback and high step. Seconding P1 ( by Hazie) probably the hardest part of climb - needs a competent team.
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βeta: Great route - took a while to convince myself that the step from the boulder was the right boulder - rain started on P2 and heaving for P3 and P4 - the move responded to undercling layback and high step. Seconding P1 ( by Hazie) probably the hardest part of climb - needs a competent team.
arose 26 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: You could aid the hard move very easily on a blue or yellow camalot or dragon
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You could aid the hard move very easily on a blue or yellow camalot or dragon

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Guidebooks for Uig Sea Cliffs Central - Mhangarstaidh

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Route of Interest

Flannan Slab

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Uig Sea Cliffs Central - Mhangarstaidh)
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