Rockfax Description
Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK, but now surpassed by its neighbours to the right. It is still a great adventure from the very bottom to the top of the Quarryman Wall.
1) 6b, 30m. Climb the slab in the corner with some bridging. From the ninth bolt, carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a bolt belay.
2) 7a, 30m. The crack and flake-line are easy to start, but have a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge. Bolt belay.
3) 6b, 30m. Climb the slab/wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (two bolts). Continue up the arete past three bolts to the 'Matilda' ledge. Bolt belay.
4) 7b+, 25m. A beginners' Quarryman groove leads to a bolt belay below Wonderful World...
5) 7b, 20m. Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake and crack system up the attractive bulging wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. The crux is either a high step up right or left - take your pick. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK now the 4th longest to 'Tan y Ddraig' still a great adventure from the very bottom of Twll Mawr to the Top of the Quarryman wall.

Pitch 1 (30m)F6b Climbs the Slab in the corner with some bridging. Clip the high 9th bolt and carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a double bolt belay.
Pitch 2 (30m)F7a Takes the obvious crack and flake line, easy to start, with a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge and double bolt belay where Opening Gambit used to cross.
Pitch 3 (30m)F6b The slab / wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (2 bolts) continue up the arete past 3 bolts taking you to the 'Matilda Ledge' double bolt belay.
Pitch 4 (25m)F7b+ The immaculate green groove above beckons. A beginners Quarryman groove. 2 bolt belay below Wonderful World of Walt Disney.
Pitch 5 (20m)F7b Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake / crack system up the attractive bulging slab / wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. Crux is either a high step up right or left take your pick.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 03/Oct/2011.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+ , Slate Sport , The Longest Sport Routes in the UK , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Sl@teheads Sl@te , Llanberis Slate *** Routes

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