Rockfax Description
This extraordinary outing sees few ascents as a complete route. Some abseil in to attempt the iconic groove pitch on its own.
1) 6c, 25m. A great pitch up the wall.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right along the break to the 'Paris' belay.
3) 6c, 18m. The groove starts smooth and wide and gets smoother and wider before a few holds appear and it eases slightly near the top.
4) 7a, 25m. For those who have climbed the groove, the disappointingly hard top pitch still needs to be done, although it is only desperate for a short section. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 8's & 9 , Hardest routes in Britain , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , UK smearing corners , North Wales Psyche , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Another lifelist? , Slate Goals
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| anguskille | 25 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Old bolts throughout the route have been replaced, including the anchor. Quite a lot safer now. No bolts were added to the original route but the first bolt in the groove is a little lower, so it is possible to clip it ground-up, although this would be tricky. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Old bolts throughout the route have been replaced, including the anchor. Quite a lot safer now. No bolts were added to the original route but the first bolt in the groove is a little lower, so it is possible to clip it ground-up, although this would be tricky. |
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| Ben Bouissou | 30 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Happy to send this historique rout :-) every pitch at the segond go ! For me: 7C+ 7A+ 8A 7C Slate on the sun was great experience :-) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Twll Mawr
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Melody
Grade: E8 6b ***
(Craig Doris)