UKH

160m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long mid-grade, multi-pitch sport route that starts at the bottom of Twll Mawr.
1) 6b, 20m. The first pitch of Rock Bottom Line. Climb the slab in the corner with some bridging. From the ninth bolt carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a bolt belay, then walk right 10m to anchors.
2) 6a+, 30m. Climb slabs and faint grooves to a shallow blocky niche at 10m. Step right and continue to a ledge. Climb the wall on the left via thin/friable holds to an awkward step onto another ledge. Continue up the wall above between two flakes to a stance at the foot of a slanting ramp.
3) 6c+, 35m. Climb the rib and wall on the left to a shallow niche. Exit this with difficulty to gain a shallow groove on the left. Gain the ledge above the smooth part of the next wall by a dogleg right then back left. Continue up using a sharp rock fang on the right, then climb a shallow rib with sloping ledges. From the highest ledge, step left into a finger-crack. Mantel out of it and climb the short groove above to the stance.
4) 6b, 15m. Gain ledges on the left and climb grooves above to an awkward exit onto a sloping shelf at the base of a recess. Climb the right corner of the recess for a few metres, step left onto the back wall and climb it, passing a couple of ledges with difficulty. Gain a groove which leads to a large horizontal ledge. There is a belay about 3m left.
5) 3c, 8m. Walk about 5m right along the ledge to the fault-line of Hamadryad. Continue right and up to the stance. There are no bolts on this pitch.
6) 6a+, 20m. Climb the corner above the stance awkwardly. Continue up the rib to a ledge below the final steepening. Step left to regain the arete, then move back round to its right side for a final awkward exit onto the sloping ledge above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is a dispute between the first ascensionists about the name (perhaps see elsewhere on UKC?) hence the dual name at present.

A long mid-grade, multi-pitch sport route that starts at the bottom of Twll Mawr. Now the 2nd longest sport climb in the UK. It follows Rock Bottom Line for one pitch then breaks out R to climb slabs and walls between Opening Gambit and Hamadryad. Finally it crosses Hamadryad to finish up the rib on its R. The climbing is continually interesting but there are areas of friable holds on p2 and p3. The most sustained sequences are on p2 and p3 but the more broken-looking ground above actually gives good puzzling moves on rock that is substantially more difficult than appearances suggest. All pitches are fully bolted and the stances have 2-bolt belays.
1) 30 m, 6b (9BR): P1 of Rock Bottom Line.
Then walk R 10 m across the top of the ledge to the anchors at the foot of P2.
2) 33 m, 6a+ (14 BR): Climb slabs and faint grooves to a shallow blocky niche at 10 m. Step R and continue to a ledge. Climb the wall on the L on small holds (some friable) and make an awkward step on to another ledge (there is a variant further right - lone bolt - that is now redundant). Continue up the wall above between two flakes to a stance at the foot of a R slanting ramp.
3) 38 m, 6c+ (14 BR): Climb the rib and wall on the L to a shallow niche. Exit this with difficulty to gain a shallow groove on the L that is followed to ledges on Taith Mawr. Gain the ledge above the smooth part of the next wall by a dogleg R then back L. Continue up using a sharp rock fang on the R and climb a shallow rib with sloping ledges. From the highest ledge step L into a finger crack. Mantle out of it and climb the short groove above to the stance.
4) 27 m, 6b (8 BR): Gain ledges on the L. Climb grooves above to an awkward exit onto a sloping shelf at the base of a recess. Climb the R corner of the recess for a few m, step L onto the back wall and climb it, passing a couple of ledges with difficulty, to gain a groove which leads to a large horizontal ledge. There is a belay about 3 m L (placed to be out of view from Hamadryad)
5) 8 m, easy: Walk about 5 m R along the ledge to the fault line of Hamadryad. Continue R and up to the stance. (No bolts but easy ground. P5 could be joined to p4 but there may then be difficulty with the rope running over a sharp edge. This can be avoided with the belay on the L if the leader stands close to the point of exit.)
6) 25 m, 6a+ (6 BR) Climb the corner above the stance awkwardly. Continue up the rib to a ledge below the final steepening. Step L to regain the arete then move back round to its R side for a final awkward exit onto the sloping ledge above.
Walk down as for Smaug (best) or abseil off.
WARNING: WOULD NOT RECOMMEND HAVING MULTIPLE TEAMS ON THIS ROUTE AT ANY ONE TIME DUE TO THE LOOSE NATURE OF THE ROCK (NO DOUBT THIS WILL IMPROVE WITH TRAFFIC). ALSO TAKE CARE WITH ROPES OVER THE SQUARE CUT EDGES AND LEDGES.

C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 27/Mar/2015.

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+ , The Longest Sport Routes in the UK , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!

Feedback

User Date Notes
gowain 4 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Damaged bolt on p1 - needs replacing? (imo). Missing bolt early on p2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Damaged bolt on p1 - needs replacing? (imo). Missing bolt early on p2.

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High 7a
Mid 7a
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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
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Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
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Route of Interest
Zut Alors

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Australia)

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