A short but interesting route that links well with Notch Arete. More sustained than V Arete and care is needed with loose rock in places. Follow the runnel below the face to the base of the prominent buttress with a deep V-gully up its centre.
1) From the toe of the buttress, go up the gully for 12m to below the prominent V-gully.
2) A heather gangway leads left to the base of the main buttress and another corner/groove
3) Make a tricky start to the corner exiting right at its top. Go right along a ledge to a precarious point overlooking the main deep V-gully feature and gain the ledge above. A cleft between the rectangular flake and pinnacle leads to another small ledge.
4) A slab now brings you over to the arete on the right. Follow this is an amazing position to an easing in angle.
5) Go left up the rocky rib to a short hard wall. Climb this up a massive wafer-like flake and finish directly up to join the ridge. Continuation - Go up North Ridge of Tryfan or Notch Arete. Descend North Ridge of Tryfan if you have had enough. © Rockfax
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