UKH

Rockfax Description
This is not the best route up the East Face and it can be greasy if damp (which it often is). It is not recommended in those conditions. Follow Heather Terrace to below the South Gully.
1) Tackle the initial gully direct to a spike below a chockstone. Make an unobvious traverse right to gain easier ground above a series of slabby grooves. Above this the gully opens out into a bay and is split by a rib (South Gully Rib - not described).
2) Go left of the rib and the gully tapers into a scree cone before it becomes rock again leading to an impasse.
3) Move left around this difficult section and scramble up to an easing in the gully.
4) The gully above is spilt by another square rib. Climb the short gully to its right and take the steep slab above that. Move back left to the main gully at another easing.
5) Another dividing rib is again passed on the right up a series of grooves. Easier terrain leads up to below the col between the south and main summits. A short rock wall prevents easy access to the true col.
6) The summit can be reached by traversing right around the bay to gain the base of a long thin slab split by a crack that leads up and right towards the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Route 18. As described in Scrambles in Snowdonia book. Page 56

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Route of Interest

Shark Buttress

Grade: Grade-3 ***
(Glyder Fach)
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