UKH

150m.

Rockfax Description
One of Wales' most classic routes. Also known as First Pinnacle Rib. A wonderful, direct voyage up the ridge. The Yellow Slab on P4 has a short 4b technical crux, but it can be skirted round to the right.
1) 10m. Start 10m right of South Gully ("FPR" is scratched on the rock) where a square block leans against the crag. Climb a slab underneath steep rock, exit right. Climb a groove on the right to belay on the ridge.
2) 40m. Follow the easy ridge on the left direct.
3) 40m. Continue up the ridge to the pinnacle. Belay behind the pinnacle.
4) 4b, 15m. The infamous Yellow Slab! Climb the polished slab to a groove on the right. Follow this to a stance. You can avoid this pitch on the right if needed.
5) to 7) Finish as for Pinnacle Rib Route in three pitches. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Buttress Norh of First Pinnacle Rib, slab out left for 20 feet. Follow Rib easily. Join Second Pinnacle Rib below Yellow Slab (4b).

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, CUMC Ticklist, Classic Rock, Welcome to CUMC, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Soggy Diffs, Mountain Rock, Easy peasy Northy Weesy, Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
maxtlor 22 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of loose rock
βeta?
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βeta: Lots of loose rock
kbow265 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Roughly. Humid.
βeta?
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βeta: Roughly. Humid.
odari 25 May, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: To make sure the stuck hex on Thomson chimney was still good, I took a fall on it. It's still excellent. (nice catch Tom). That last pitch is not easy, especially when wet. The hand/fist crack above the hex takes a n.3 BD. The rest, including yellow slab, are ok even in damp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: To make sure the stuck hex on Thomson chimney was still good, I took a fall on it. It's still excellent. (nice catch Tom). That last pitch is not easy, especially when wet. The hand/fist crack above the hex takes a n.3 BD. The rest, including yellow slab, are ok even in damp.

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Route of Interest

Cneifion Arete

Grade: D ***
(Cwm Cneifion)
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