Rockfax Description
A classic outing, described here with a more direct start up the crack. The original start climbs the diagonal corner on the left.
1) 32m. Start at the polished finger-crack in the centre of the slab. Follow this to gain the diagonal overlap which is followed rightwards to a niche. Move left through the overlap to gain the slab on the left and make a tricky manoeuvre through the overlap and onto the large ledge.
2) 30m. Climb the groove behind the flake, stepping left at a steepening and continuing up the groove to a "leg width" crack. Surmount this amusing obstacle to a niche. Continue up the fault to a huge block, and hand traverse leftwards below this, striding wildly across a chasm at its end into a large bay. Move up to the back left of the bay and belay below a large chimney
3) 12m. The crux chimney! Squirm up the chimney at the back of the bay. Some holds on the right wall might be useful. An alternative, easier finish climbs the wall on the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A great polished classic which is almost always busy. The nature of the climbing means that it attracts its fair share of struggling seconds (and leaders) who curse and swear their way up the polished wide cracks, flakes, chimneys and grooves.
Ticklists
Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Milestone Butress , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Ogwen 1000 , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Big Ogwen Day Out , The Long Routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , BSR multipitch routes , No you're a punter , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Llidberis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Ethical Joe | 8 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Great route every pitch wonderful. But should not of had the Pete’s eats for breakfast before that final pitch. Abseiled the wrong way off and got trapped on a damp ledge | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route every pitch wonderful. But should not of had the Pete’s eats for breakfast before that final pitch. Abseiled the wrong way off and got trapped on a damp ledge |
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| martinfindlay | 27 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Great route. Did it in the pissing rain which made it feel even more adventurous! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. Did it in the pissing rain which made it feel even more adventurous! |
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| TroutTickler | 7 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Great rougd | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great rougd |
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| Lucydavison09 | 23 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Very polished 1st and 3rd pitch, but a nice climb. If you can make the grade the super direct route (HVS) is a better climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very polished 1st and 3rd pitch, but a nice climb. If you can make the grade the super direct route (HVS) is a better climb |
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| Annaproffitt | 23 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Pretty blood polished in the final chimney! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pretty blood polished in the final chimney! |
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| Professor_Professorson | 8 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: As a beginner found it really exposed and struggled a bit. Found some fixed gear at the top of P2 if you want to skip the chimney or what looks like the unprotected short P3. | ||
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βeta: As a beginner found it really exposed and struggled a bit. Found some fixed gear at the top of P2 if you want to skip the chimney or what looks like the unprotected short P3. |
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| tehmarks | 4 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Gully abseil gets you to the ground in exactly 30m, for those who are wondering if they can ab off on their single in one go. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gully abseil gets you to the ground in exactly 30m, for those who are wondering if they can ab off on their single in one go. |
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| DJF | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: The guidebooks suggest that a scramble descent down the gully is doable. It’s an abseil every day imo. You can do the longer walk over the top and join the North Ridge walk down if you want to walk off. Be prepared to abseil the gully though if that’s the way you want to go. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The guidebooks suggest that a scramble descent down the gully is doable. It’s an abseil every day imo. You can do the longer walk over the top and join the North Ridge walk down if you want to walk off. Be prepared to abseil the gully though if that’s the way you want to go. |
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| GarstonLam | 16 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Classic for obvious reasons, the wear is visible. People seem to skip the final pitch however it's great if you like to shimmy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Classic for obvious reasons, the wear is visible. People seem to skip the final pitch however it's great if you like to shimmy. |
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| AdamJ19 | 28 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found 3rd belay stance at thread closer to edge rather than by the chimney made it easier to communicate with the second. Ditch bags and hoist for crux chimney pitch. | ||
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βeta: I found 3rd belay stance at thread closer to edge rather than by the chimney made it easier to communicate with the second. Ditch bags and hoist for crux chimney pitch. |
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| o.s.harding | 9 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: N/A | βeta? | |
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βeta: N/A |
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| gilandcoop | 14 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Polished in parts. Climbing with daysacks on made the crux chimney more interesting. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Polished in parts. Climbing with daysacks on made the crux chimney more interesting. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Tryfan
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Pencoed Pillar
Grade: HVD ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)