Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
Rockfax Description
The right arete of the pillar gives an elegant experience in head climbing which just merits the grade.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the right-hand side of the arete until it is possible to pull around onto its left. Tip-toe up this side past a small roof (old peg). Move up past a small wire to a square hold, then climb the dinky groove above with some excitement.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb the shallow groove behind the belay to the next ledge, then move left into Trevallen Pillar. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, A.Hudson 30/Apr/1983.
Ticklists
101Pembroke Extremes , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| remus | 13 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't see any sign of the peg mentioned in the description. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Couldn't see any sign of the peg mentioned in the description. |
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| John Alcock | 16 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very reach depenent move to the ledge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very reach depenent move to the ledge. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff
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Wicked Gravity
Grade: E5 6b ***
(St. Govan's Head)