Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023
Rockfax Description
A strenuous and well-protected crack climb to the break, with a technical and slightly bold direct finish for dessert. Start below a groove and prominent crack, in the centre of the wall. Climb the groove to a flake on the left. Make a hard move into the crack above which gives sustained climbing to the big break. Pull over onto the upper wall, place some wires, and climb it to the top via some tricky and committing moves. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, D.Swinden 30/Apr/1980.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , Theo's Pembroke ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 30 For My 30s , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembroke dreams
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
GDes | 8 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb. Pumpy to the break and a good shakeout. Top wall felt pretty committing and unobvious, probably mainly due to lack of chalk? Seems like most people still traverse off to the Boss Hog finish. Straight up seems much more logical, but definitely felt like the E5 bit of the route | ||
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb. Pumpy to the break and a good shakeout. Top wall felt pretty committing and unobvious, probably mainly due to lack of chalk? Seems like most people still traverse off to the Boss Hog finish. Straight up seems much more logical, but definitely felt like the E5 bit of the route |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Greenham Common)