Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023

 

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
A strenuous and well-protected crack climb to the break, with a technical and slightly bold direct finish for dessert. Start below a groove and prominent crack, in the centre of the wall. Climb the groove to a flake on the left. Make a hard move into the crack above which gives sustained climbing to the big break. Pull over onto the upper wall, place some wires, and climb it to the top via some tricky and committing moves. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, D.Swinden 30/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , Theo's Pembroke ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 30 For My 30s , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembroke dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
GDes 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb. Pumpy to the break and a good shakeout. Top wall felt pretty committing and unobvious, probably mainly due to lack of chalk? Seems like most people still traverse off to the Boss Hog finish. Straight up seems much more logical, but definitely felt like the E5 bit of the route
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb. Pumpy to the break and a good shakeout. Top wall felt pretty committing and unobvious, probably mainly due to lack of chalk? Seems like most people still traverse off to the Boss Hog finish. Straight up seems much more logical, but definitely felt like the E5 bit of the route

Logged Ascents

198 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tasmanian Devil

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Greenham Common)

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