UKH

250m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic chimney climb, which has suffered from its popularity adding polish to the otherwise good holds. Nevertheless the route provides elegant yet traditional climbing and is a must for chimney enthusiasts.
Start on the northeast side of the tower, next to the base of the gendarme - the little tower to the left of Cima Piccolissima. A short scree gully leads to a ledge. Follow this right to the base of the route below prominent black flakes.
1) IV, 30m. Climb direct to the flakes and follow these right to a detached spur. Traverse a ledge left here to reach a peg belay below a vertical crack.
2) V, 20m. Climb the crack direct on increasingly compact rock, then trend right to reach a wide ledge.
3) V, 30m. Trend right and climb a flake until moves left lead to another flaked crack. Follow the line of this direct then continue up a ramp of easy rock to a good stance.
4) V-, 35m. Move up to the narrow yellow chimney above - this is often climbed facing out - until a narrow section. Move onto the right wall (facing out) then re-enter the chimney to reach a stance where it widens.
5) IV+, 35m. Continue in the same line, overcoming two chockstones, to a belay deep in the chimney.
6) V-, 40m. Move onto the left wall (facing in) then re-enter the chimney. Climb polished rock, with superb bridging positions, to reach another chockstone. Belay just above this.
7) IV+, 50m. Continue in the wider and more featured chimney as it trends right to exit below the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic climb with a polished Crux

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip, 5 Towers 15 Hours

Feedback

User Date Notes
ecooper03 15 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Abseils, was tough. The last pitch wasn't clear where it finished, a lot of lose rock. Finding the abseil rings was hard to find, with over hangs and unsure of how much rope to use. need at least 30. The first abseil loop was on the right hand side, when topping out. Incredible experience. Saw marmots too
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseils, was tough. The last pitch wasn't clear where it finished, a lot of lose rock. Finding the abseil rings was hard to find, with over hangs and unsure of how much rope to use. need at least 30. The first abseil loop was on the right hand side, when topping out. Incredible experience. Saw marmots too

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High V+
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Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Followed
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Onsighted
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Not Set
Route of Interest

South-West corner (Fehrmann route)

Grade: V ***
(Brenta Group)
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