A classic chimney climb, which has suffered from its popularity adding polish to the otherwise good holds. Nevertheless the route provides elegant yet traditional climbing and is a must for chimney enthusiasts.
Start on the northeast side of the tower, next to the base of the gendarme - the little tower to the left of Cima Piccolissima. A short scree gully leads to a ledge. Follow this right to the base of the route below prominent black flakes.
1) IV, 30m. Climb direct to the flakes and follow these right to a detached spur. Traverse a ledge left here to reach a peg belay below a vertical crack.
2) V, 20m. Climb the crack direct on increasingly compact rock, then trend right to reach a wide ledge.
3) V, 30m. Trend right and climb a flake until moves left lead to another flaked crack. Follow the line of this direct then continue up a ramp of easy rock to a good stance.
4) V-, 35m. Move up to the narrow yellow chimney above - this is often climbed facing out - until a narrow section. Move onto the right wall (facing out) then re-enter the chimney to reach a stance where it widens.
5) IV+, 35m. Continue in the same line, overcoming two chockstones, to a belay deep in the chimney.
6) V-, 40m. Move onto the left wall (facing in) then re-enter the chimney. Climb polished rock, with superb bridging positions, to reach another chockstone. Belay just above this.
7) IV+, 50m. Continue in the wider and more featured chimney as it trends right to exit below the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A classic climb with a polished Crux
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