A classic route which follows a series of stepped ledges up the northeast arete. There is some loose rock (beware of rocks falling from parties above) with numerous possible lines staying left of the arete itself. There are plenty of pegs but, given the multiple variations, these are not always where you want them to be so be prepared to build/backup belays and protection.
Start 10m to the left of the line of the arete, just left of a plaque.
1) III, 20m. Climb a crack, just left of the plaque, then bear right to a small ledge.
2) IV, 45m. Move left to a crack and climb this, trending left to a wider crack. Climb this vertically and step left to a stance.
3) IV, 30m. Traverse 5m left on the ledge to a chimney-crack. Climb this direct then move right to a ledge.
4) IV, 40m. Climb a crack to reach a scree ledge. Cross this and continue to a higher ledge, and follow this right towards the arete.
5) III+, 40m. Climb just left of the arete, avoiding a small roof on its right. Move left above this to a small terrace.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left to reach a crack about 30m left of the arete and follow this before moving back right.
7) IV+, 50m. Follow the line of the arete, staying just on the left side, following numerous pegs to reach a ledge.
8) III+, 30m. Make moves towards the arete and cross onto the right side. Stay on this side briefly before crossing back left on a ledge.
9) IV-, 60m. Move left to reach a shallow gully of pale rock. Climb this right to a ledge.
10) III+, 40m. Continue over a series of stepped ledges, staying left of the arete.
11) IV, 45m. Continue in the same line up a series of vague ledges and rocky buttresses to a good ledge.
12) IV, 45m. Follow the ledge left to a vague flake. Follow this back right then continue direct up more stepped ledges to a chimney-gully.
13) III, 40m. Climb the chimney-gully (many possible lines either side) to reach the Ringband Terrace.
The continuation to the lower summit is not recommended, as the rock is dangerous and loose. For those who wish to reach the summit it is better to traverse the Ringband Terrace left to reach the Normal Route (see page 456) and follow this to the summit. © Rockfax
A.Dibona, E. Stubler 1909.
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