UKH

200m.

Rockfax Description
II, 220m, 2 - 3 hours. This is a popular route and rightly so. It provides a high mountain feel without requiring huge commitment or any difficult climbing, plus the view from the Tour Ronde is one of the best in the Alps. The most popular start is via the East Face though conditions can force you to choose the slightly longer, but equally good, option of following the full Southeast Ridge.
1) If there is sufficient snow and the temperature is not too high (rockfall risk in this situation), climb the 120m snow couloir on the Tour Ronde East Face to reach the Southeast Ridge. The couloir is 45 degrees at its steepest point and can be abseiled in descent if conditions are poor.
2) Once on the ridge, conditions will dictate the exact line taken but generally it is possible to (more or less) follow the crest to reach the final summit tower.
3) This is only 20m or so of easy slab climbing and takes you to the famous Madonna which lives on the top. The view, especially that towards the Brenva face of Mont Blanc, is superb.
Descent - Reverse the route. It is possible to make a series of 50m abseils down the couloir on the East Face if snow conditions are too poor for downclimbing. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Alpine Progression

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Route of Interest
Arete des Cosmiques

Grade: AD 3 ***
(Aiguille du Midi)

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