UKH

200m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route which offers enjoyable chimney and corner climbing. The low grade, proximity to Rifugio Fonda Savio and the undeniably logical line contribute to the route's deserved popularity. Limited fixed gear.
Start at the base of the prominent corner-crack.
1) IV-, 35m. Climb the corner-crack trending slightly right to reach a large chockstone. Move around this on the right - or squeeze behind it - to reach a cemented peg.
2) IV, 20m. Climb a bulge direct and continue up a chimney crack to a ledge.
3) IV, 30m. Climb a corner-crack rightwards on grey rock. After 10m move right onto a slab and climb this direct to a stance in a chimney-gully.
4) IV, 30m. Move left and follow the chimney-gully to reach a bulge. Avoid this on the right to enter a narrow chimney, and follow this to a stance in a niche.
5) IV-, 25m. Move easily left and climb a short chimney to a small pulpit.
6) IV-, 35m. Climb a gully left, then move onto the slab above and climb this direct to a stance at the base of a pillar.
7) III, 35m. Climb direct to the left of the pillar then trend diagonally right to reach the arete. Follow this left with easier climbing to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There has recently been some rockfall on this route and the climb is awaiting moderation.

Mazzorana/del Torso 07/Sep/1938.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

Feedback

User Date Notes
gingerbex 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Chockstone top of p1 no longer exists. There’s been significant rockfall. New pegs for belay out right on ledge from corner crack system. Warning. Lots of loose rock at top p1. Care when belaying. Descent is horrible! Use of 60m halves greatly assisted us descending from the last ab station over v loose rock. Care if others below. Fantastic route otherwise Note- it’s not a south face climb. It’s a corner facing SW is remains in shadow much of the day until top pitches.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chockstone top of p1 no longer exists. There’s been significant rockfall. New pegs for belay out right on ledge from corner crack system. Warning. Lots of loose rock at top p1. Care when belaying. Descent is horrible! Use of 60m halves greatly assisted us descending from the last ab station over v loose rock. Care if others below. Fantastic route otherwise Note- it’s not a south face climb. It’s a corner facing SW is remains in shadow much of the day until top pitches.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Via Mazzorana-Adler

Grade: IV ***
(Monte Popena Basso)
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