A classic route which offers enjoyable chimney and corner climbing. The low grade, proximity to Rifugio Fonda Savio and the undeniably logical line contribute to the route's deserved popularity. Limited fixed gear.
Start at the base of the prominent corner-crack.
1) IV-, 35m. Climb the corner-crack trending slightly right to reach a large chockstone. Move around this on the right - or squeeze behind it - to reach a cemented peg.
2) IV, 20m. Climb a bulge direct and continue up a chimney crack to a ledge.
3) IV, 30m. Climb a corner-crack rightwards on grey rock. After 10m move right onto a slab and climb this direct to a stance in a chimney-gully.
4) IV, 30m. Move left and follow the chimney-gully to reach a bulge. Avoid this on the right to enter a narrow chimney, and follow this to a stance in a niche.
5) IV-, 25m. Move easily left and climb a short chimney to a small pulpit.
6) IV-, 35m. Climb a gully left, then move onto the slab above and climb this direct to a stance at the base of a pillar.
7) III, 35m. Climb direct to the left of the pillar then trend diagonally right to reach the arete. Follow this left with easier climbing to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There has recently been some rockfall on this route and the climb is awaiting moderation.
Mazzorana/del Torso 07/Sep/1938.
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