Rockfax Description
Start under a shallow corner on the side of a slab that leads to a prominent notch in the ridge between the first and second towers.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb the shallow corner (peg) until a line of protruding flints marks a traverse left. Follow this via the line of least resistance to a position just below the notch. Step up (good thread) and pop over the ridge to a large sloping ledge on the north side. A selection of poor pegs mark the belay (a good medium cam down low will back it up). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route is forever changing, but essentially wade out (at low tide) to the cliff below the col between the first and second pinnacles of the ridge line. Gain this somehow and follow the ridge for approx 6 pitches to the headland. Then have 10 pints. In reality you need to be leading a good deal harder than HVS, and that goes for all members of the party, in fact it may well be XS 5a now. This route does not require the use of ice axes and crampons however a few pegs or a couple of warthogs may be helpful but ascents have been made without. Some very long (16') slings may be a good idea. Previous ascents have used one or two ice screws on the first pitch, the holes of which may or may not still be usable.
FA. M.Fowler, L.Smyth 11/Nov/1984.
Ticklists
HVS Adventures, Sunny Side Up, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Trad on every UK island, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The V.S.+ Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Big Routes, Outragous Positions, Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| mike hope | 6 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Just be aware the warden is very helpful, so try not to be later than the agreed exit time. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Just be aware the warden is very helpful, so try not to be later than the agreed exit time. |
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| masa-alpin | 30 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: There is a short but fat (20cm in diameter) wooden trunk for an abseil anchor near the corner of the fence. We abseiled from there through a little groove directly below. We rigged the ab rope (as well as the belay rope for the top out) in late afternoon on the previous day after (compulsory) meeting with National Trust officers in Old Battery, and went climbing in the very early morning the following day to catch the low tide. The (90-metre) abseiling is dangerous in the sense loose chalk/flint above would shower on you. Better hire a boat to access the starting point of the climb. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a short but fat (20cm in diameter) wooden trunk for an abseil anchor near the corner of the fence. We abseiled from there through a little groove directly below. We rigged the ab rope (as well as the belay rope for the top out) in late afternoon on the previous day after (compulsory) meeting with National Trust officers in Old Battery, and went climbing in the very early morning the following day to catch the low tide. The (90-metre) abseiling is dangerous in the sense loose chalk/flint above would shower on you. Better hire a boat to access the starting point of the climb. |
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