A brutal exercise which tussles with the wide overhanging cracks on the left side of the wall. Very large cams will take the sting out of some of the run-outs, but not the climbing itself! Those with a big rack may prefer to combine the first two pitches. Start at a small pinnacle of rock sticking out of the ground below a continuous crack-line.
1) 5b, 18m. Head up left to meet the crack. Climb it until steep moves right up another crack gain a ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 35m. Follow the sustained overhanging wide crack past a niche to less steep ground. Continue up grassy cracks to a ledge and a belay.
3) 4b, 15m. The cracks and corner to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route of magnetic attraction which climbs the obvious overhanging crackline towards the left side of an impressive overhanging wall. Start about 15m left of Tophet Wall at an upstanding block directly below the crack.
1.) 15m (5b), climb the crack until it steepens, then step right into another crack, which is followed to a stance and belay on the left.
2.) 27m (5c), the extremely strenuous and overhanging crack above is climbed passing an awkward flared niche at the top. Easier ground is followed to a large pedestal belay.
3.) 15m (4b), continue up the crack and groove above to the top.
AR. McHardy, P. Braithwaite Jun/1969.
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