UKH

114m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Classic ridge climbing providing unique views of Napes Needle. Start in the gap between the needle and main cliff.
1) 12m. Ascend a polished slab and then the wide crack/chimney to a ledge and belay.
2) 20m. Climb the steep wall via a crack, then continue up easier ground to a grassy col and belay under a chimney.
3) 14m. Climb the chimney and move left and up to a ledge.
4) 36m. Move up the corner and step left below an overhang to a crack that is followed to a belay on the ridge. Alternatively, move right below the overhang and up to the ridge.
5) 40m. Move easily along the ridge to the descent line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, safe climbing in superb surroundings on good though polished rock. Start from the gap directly behind the Needle.
1.) 12m, climb the very polished slab above to a chimney that trends left to a stance below a steep wall.
2.) 15m, the steep wall above, followed by easier rocks, leads to a broken wall. Climb the wall, then traverse 7m right to the rib.
3.) 25m, follow the rib above, then easy rocks to a corner which is climbed on the right.
4.) 12m, climb the groove on the left. Alternatively, climb the groove for 3m, then traverse right under the overhang and finish straight up.
5.) 33m, easy scrambling to the top.

WP Haskett-Smith (solo) Sep/1884.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, CUMC Ticklist, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Mountaineering Routes in the Lake District, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, The Long Routes, UK Holiday Plans, "First Steps" Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2019 Ticklist, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Lake District Classic Rock Challenge, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge, Rock Stars Trad Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
watersah 7 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Harder than I was expecting - every pitch gave some entertainment
βeta?
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βeta: Harder than I was expecting - every pitch gave some entertainment
stevesmith 5 Aug Show βeta
βeta: I found the first moves from the gap behind the Needle thin and unprotected, on small polished holds. A very small cam or tricam might work.
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βeta: I found the first moves from the gap behind the Needle thin and unprotected, on small polished holds. A very small cam or tricam might work.
eldre070 22 May Show βeta
βeta: Cold, damp and super polished. Walked off the back and into the scree gully. We avoided the very old tat that would have perhaps dropped us into the gulley earlier but it looked desperate.
Show beta
βeta: Cold, damp and super polished. Walked off the back and into the scree gully. We avoided the very old tat that would have perhaps dropped us into the gulley earlier but it looked desperate.
nath2915 19 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Interesting descent via 35/40m abseil at the end of the ridge followed by scree. The static rope anchor in place has seen some better days, recommend using your own rope.
βeta?
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βeta: Interesting descent via 35/40m abseil at the end of the ridge followed by scree. The static rope anchor in place has seen some better days, recommend using your own rope.
Lewis Johnstone 23 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route for climbers at the start of their climbing journey
Show beta
βeta: Great route for climbers at the start of their climbing journey

Logged Ascents

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Votes cast 106
Votes cast 112
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brown Slabs Direct

Grade: VD ***
(Shepherd’s Crag)
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