Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
Indian Creek comes to the slate quarries. Care is needed to pass some blocks at the start of the crack.
1) 5b, 26m. Climb the corner-crack. Take as many thin hand-sized cams as you can afford or borrow.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and scramble off the loose scree above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New bolt belay added, making it possible to lower off.

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Slate 2018/2019 , Slate crack hitlist , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , North Wales Jam and Wide Cracks , Gwynedd Grack , Wales Trip - 2022 , Summer of dreams

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High E4
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High E3
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High E2
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Votes cast 13
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Colossus

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)

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