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Rockfax Description
The staggered overlaps on the left wall of the dominating corner of Central Groove. Start at the base of the corner.
Climb Central Groove for 10m and access the overlaps. Follow these to a pull over onto the cracked wall and the belay ledge a short distance above. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
VALA 160' HARD VERY SEVERE 5A- (1963) Good strenuous climbing, but there are resting places. Be warned, the cracks ‘eat’ Friends. Start as for Central Groove (Pg 13).
1) 5a-. Climb Central Groove, until it’s possible to move left, and layback round an overhang. Continue up to the main overhang, a long reach directly over this leads to increasingly better holds, and a ledge. Most abseil off, but you can go
on to:
2) 4a. Walk down left behind a flake until beneath a small overhang, surmount this to gain a ledge. Overgrown.
3) 5a+. Climb the problematic wall, between the two chimneys, finishing up
a slab. Hard.

Ticklists

Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 2020 Vision

Feedback

User Date Notes
petegruf 18 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side
Jack Barrett-Kelly 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these.
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing.
Albie 4 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top.
 
Show beta
βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 61
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Moonraker

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Berry Head (The Old Redoubt))