The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A spectacular linkage taking on the hold plastered sheer right wall of Central Groove, followed by a powerful overhang high up on the cliff. Start as for Central Groove.1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and bridge out right onto a hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang above and pull through onto the vertical wall. Ascend direct on positive holds to the belay at the top of pitch one of Central Groove.2) 5b, 17m. Climb up and then leftwards to below a large overhang. Tackle the overhang by moving up rightwards on large but well spaced holds to a mossy crack. Move up the crack past a small tree to a ledge. Take the short easy crack to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Littlejohn, John Fowler 3.8.1968 (The direct start was climbed in the 1980s) The upper pitch is part of the route Extendable Arms. FA. Pete O'Sullivan 27.1.1979 03/Aug/1968.
The E1 UK Roadtrip , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Graeme Hammond | 23 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Also known as Scimitar Direct in the CC guide. P2 through the roof is fantastic and is worth doing despite the recommendation in the CC Dartmoor guide to finish as for Central Groove. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Also known as Scimitar Direct in the CC guide. P2 through the roof is fantastic and is worth doing despite the recommendation in the CC Dartmoor guide to finish as for Central Groove. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)