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Rockfax Description
The final exposed and sustained pitch is the best of the VDiffs at the Dewerstone. Although the line looks a little hidden away and broken from below, the climbing is varied and fairly tricky. The route is shady and needs dry conditions. Start at a small protruding buttress of blocks, right of a small gully.
1) 10m. Move up left past a low overhang and then step back right and up to a belay on a good ledge.
2) 10m. Climb the wall above the stance to ledges and a large tree belay.
3) 11m. Above is a small corner in the wall. Move right and pull back left steeply on good holds into the corner. Climb this and a short wall to a ledge and tree belay. Strenuous.
4) 18m. A brilliant pitch. Move left from the stance onto the main face and climb to below an overhanging nose on the arete. Take the slim corner just right of the nose until it is possible to work leftwards to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A good final pitch.
Start beneath the large broken block, right of the Climbers’ Club start.
1) 3a. Climb the block, and continue to a tree belay.
2) 3a. Climb up to another tree, then cracks in the wall to yet another tree. Belay here, or on the ledge 12 feet higher.
3) 3c. This pitch feels the business. From the ledge, move out left, onto the main face, and climb a hanging groove on its right-hand side. Move right, and climb slabs to
the top.
VARIATIONS
1a) 4b. Climb over the bulge, move right, beneath the overhang, then climb a
short groove.
3a) 3a. Climb the flake behind the belay, until it is possible to move left, and
rejoin the parent route on the nose.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, Moving to Devon, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!, Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 92
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Original 1923 Route

Grade: HVD ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)