A well-positioned and exposed route that finishes atop the needle. Start low down on the front face amongst the trees, beneath a very short boot-width layback crack.
1) 7m. Climb the crack to a ledge with some big trees on it and a large low spike. This pitch can be bypassed from the ledge.
2) 20m. From the right-hand side of the low spike, climb the slab to below the buttress proper and continue up a crack system just left of the arete to a steeper final section that eases at a good spike hold. Swing right to a stance and tree belay.
3) 12m. Climb above the tree for 2m on good holds until horizontal moves left around the arete (under a nose) access a corner/groove. Climb this easily to the needle. © Rockfax
FA. Jim Simpson 1949.
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Star Diffs , Cream first!
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