A well-positioned and exposed route that finishes atop the needle. Start low down on the front face amongst the trees beneath a very short boot-wide layback crack.1) 7m. Climb the crack to a ledge with some big trees on it and a low, large spike. This pitch is easily avoided by walking to the ledge from the right.2) 20m. From the right-hand side of the low spike climb the slab to below the buttress proper and continue up a crack-system just left of the arete to a steeper final section that eases at a good spike hold. Swing right to a stance and tree belay.3) 12m. Climb above the tree for 2m on good holds until horizontal moves left around the arete under a nose access a corner/groove. Climb this easily to the needle. © Rockfax
FA. Jim Simpson 1949.
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