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3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well-positioned and exposed route that finishes atop the needle. Start low down on the front face amongst the trees beneath a very short boot-wide layback crack.
1) 7m. Climb the crack to a ledge with some big trees on it and a low, large spike. This pitch is easily avoided by walking to the ledge from the right.
2) 20m. From the right-hand side of the low spike climb the slab to below the buttress proper and continue up a crack-system just left of the arete to a steeper final section that eases at a good spike hold. Swing right to a stance and tree belay.
3) 12m. Climb above the tree for 2m on good holds until horizontal moves left around the arete under a nose access a corner/groove. Climb this easily to the needle. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Simpson 1949.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, Moving to Devon, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!, Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial

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User Date Notes
Gilster 14 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Tree belay v rotten
βeta?
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βeta: Tree belay v rotten
JohnHutch 14 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tough for V diff!
 
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βeta: Tough for V diff!
BrightEyes 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A group of us climbed together. I seconded the second pitch.
βeta?
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βeta: A group of us climbed together. I seconded the second pitch.
Monk 11 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I combined the first and second pitches (couldn't see any good reason not to!). A very pleasant climb, that was made better by doing the top pitch of Camel rather than the scrappy 3rd pitch.
βeta?
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βeta: I combined the first and second pitches (couldn't see any good reason not to!). A very pleasant climb, that was made better by doing the top pitch of Camel rather than the scrappy 3rd pitch.
Tom Last 23 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: We skipped the first pitch as it's just a rank looking mossy crack and slab and you can just walk to the top of it, making it feel a bit pointless. You might as well link the last two pitches as belaying at the tree actually produces more drag as the rope runs round the corner. Better as a single pitch route imho; you still get the best of the climbing and you save time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We skipped the first pitch as it's just a rank looking mossy crack and slab and you can just walk to the top of it, making it feel a bit pointless. You might as well link the last two pitches as belaying at the tree actually produces more drag as the rope runs round the corner. Better as a single pitch route imho; you still get the best of the climbing and you save time.

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Votes cast 97
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Whispering Doom

Grade: VD ***
(Elender Cove)