The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A well-travelled line with some impressive climbing on the second pitch. Start at a belay on a ramp above a 2m high mossy wall and beneath a small tree at 5m.
1) 4b, 10m. Move past the tree and take the short crack above to a slab that leads to a tree and belay.
2) 4a, 16m. From a flake, climb up left to an overhung line leading back rightwards to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A Dewerstone classic with a fine, exposed, second pitch.
Start at the top of the platform, below a slab and crack.
1) 4b. Climb the wall, past a small tree, to a crack. Climb this crack, past a hard move, to reach a tree belay.
2) 4a. Move left, and climb up a short corner to the start of the overhangs.
Move up, and rightwards, beneath the overhangs. Continue this rising traverse, until a wide crack is reached. Climb this crack awkwardly to the top.
FA. 1960s 1965.
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , 50 more great HS routes , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Bennyboy1233 | 2 Feb, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good lead from Liam, had some problems with rope drag! First few pieces on the 2nd pitch need extenders | ||
Show beta
βeta: Good lead from Liam, had some problems with rope drag! First few pieces on the 2nd pitch need extenders |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Lundy)