UKH Hills - 'Climbers' Club Ordinary'

52m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The easiest way up the Dewerstone's most impressive wall is a fine series of pitches. The first pitch is serious and requires care. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully.
1) 4b, 24m. Climb up and traverse left to some dubious flakes. Head left, using them with great care, then climb up left to an overhanging corner. Move up this for 2m and then make a blind step rightwards, around a rib, into a parallel corner. Move up to a good stance on the left at a bollard.
2) 4b, 20m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top and pull out right. Move up to a widening, then traverse leftwards using a thin black crack to a good ledge belay beneath a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 8m. Climb the magnificently positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, varied, climbing and exposure combine to produce a Classic Rock
climb. Poor protection makes this a serious pitch for both leader and second.
1) 4b. Bold. Start at the earthy corner on the right. Climb this corner, and cracks in the wall, to a small niche, and pick up the likely traverse line. Move delicately across,
and up this, to a large flake. Continue into the niche.
2) 4a. Move right, and make a blind move to gain a groove. Climb this groove to belay on a ledge beneath a chimney.
3) 4a. Climb the chimney (Peg). Move up, and out, of the chimney and into a wide crack. Climb this crack, until an airy leftwards traverse leads to a belay, beneath a hanging corner. (As for Central Groove (Pg 13).)
4) 4b. Climb the corner to the top. Or, try the finish to CC Direct

D.Cox, R. Bere 02/Sep/1935.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , South West Classic VS's , 2020 Vision , Dartmoor Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , 33 By 33 , By May… , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , Llidberis South West Tour

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User	Date		Notes
mikeysee123	5 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Warning, gear beta follows! As noted below, the wide crack in pitch two only seems to be protectable with huge cams (bigger than blue). Two half-ropes advised; very bad rope drag if using a single. A pretty serious route.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Warning, gear beta follows! As noted below, the wide crack in pitch two only seems to be protectable with huge cams (bigger than blue). Two half-ropes advised; very bad rope drag if using a single. A pretty serious route.
monicareeves91	4 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Had to bail after a billion goes on the blind move on pitch one. Had to leave some gear, if any kind person retrieves it pls could you contact me on 07429608329 to arrange postage. Absolute karma for underestimating this route!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Had to bail after a billion goes on the blind move on pitch one. Had to leave some gear, if any kind person retrieves it pls could you contact me on 07429608329 to arrange postage. Absolute karma for underestimating this route!
Phil Lyon	21 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Approach instructions should just say, \"cross bridge, turn right and follow paths at or near river level\". This will take you to the crag. Map in car park combined with rockfax wording is actually a bit confusing and contradictory.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Approach instructions should just say, "cross bridge, turn right and follow paths at or near river level". This will take you to the crag. Map in car park combined with rockfax wording is actually a bit confusing and contradictory.
Whits	13 Sep, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Be vigilant of loose blocks on p1	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Be vigilant of loose blocks on p1
Paul Sagar	29 May, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Serious route you should only climb with a couple of grades in hand. Not to be underestimated.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Serious route you should only climb with a couple of grades in hand. Not to be underestimated.
Iain Weymouth	29 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Super route which follows an improbable line for its grade	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Super route which follows an improbable line for its grade
phil456	16 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The wide grove that leads off from the p1 belay has no gear unless you have large cams, my blue dragon No 5, did not inspire any confidence.
Show beta βeta: The wide grove that leads off from the p1 belay has no gear unless you have large cams, my blue dragon No 5, did not inspire any confidence.