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11m.

Rockfax Description
A fingery and tenuous little wall climb with a distinct crux. Keep away from the crack of Jam on the right. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 05/Nov/1990.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland sub 6b, Portland, Portland road to 7a

Feedback

User Date Notes
Francescaparratt 5 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Removed a large chunk of loose rock near the anchors, instead of a big wobbly grabby thing there is now a side pull. Not sure how much/ if it effects the route.
 
Show beta
βeta: Removed a large chunk of loose rock near the anchors, instead of a big wobbly grabby thing there is now a side pull. Not sure how much/ if it effects the route.
GaronSmith 23 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Close to lip - High right hand finds comfortable crimp
 
Show beta
βeta: Close to lip - High right hand finds comfortable crimp
Halal Mungbean 16 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, balancey moves up the face and just enough good/not polished holds to make it reasonable for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, balancey moves up the face and just enough good/not polished holds to make it reasonable for the grade.
drcorbasisgod 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Balancy and interesting sequence of moves, from jugs to slopers and then crimps. Why oh why did they put the bolts at the top just out of reach???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Balancy and interesting sequence of moves, from jugs to slopers and then crimps. Why oh why did they put the bolts at the top just out of reach???
Ben Thorne 23 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Becomes a good warm up once you've climbed it once. If you sweat like a normal human, the crimps do get a little greasy. Almost decked off the crux once when my fingers greased off (sleepy belayer!).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Becomes a good warm up once you've climbed it once. If you sweat like a normal human, the crimps do get a little greasy. Almost decked off the crux once when my fingers greased off (sleepy belayer!).
Wilbur 16 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Crimps aren't polished but it does get greasy easily in hot weather. Hard to read and quite balancy/tricky. Quality sequence of moves - most enjoyable...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crimps aren't polished but it does get greasy easily in hot weather. Hard to read and quite balancy/tricky. Quality sequence of moves - most enjoyable...
Marcus B 7 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Damn good route. well worth doing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Damn good route. well worth doing.
Richard Horn 29 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This route is excellent - I dont think the polish really detracts as it is mainly crimping anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is excellent - I dont think the polish really detracts as it is mainly crimping anyway.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 138
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Trad Free World

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)