12m.

Rockfax Description
The big corner at the base of the track that runs down under this section of the crag has some long reaches. Although it has become polished, it is still about right at the current grade, but is a little tougher for the short. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ULMC Classics , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs at The Cuttings , Portland , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game

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User Date Notes
eddie "grunty" goodey 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this
βeta?
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βeta: Really enjoyed this
FerClimbs 20 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Start confusing on Rockfax guidebook. It starts at the arete and go rightwards.
βeta?
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βeta: Start confusing on Rockfax guidebook. It starts at the arete and go rightwards.
Lloyders 30 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Lup Dup. Very nice route which easily gets a star in my opinion. The moves involving the undercut flake are really nicely! i reckon 6a+
βeta?
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βeta: Lup Dup. Very nice route which easily gets a star in my opinion. The moves involving the undercut flake are really nicely! i reckon 6a+
Lloyders 11 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: "The little sod" is a good route. a bit technical untill your on the ledges and shame its not longer but still a good climb. probably 6b.
βeta?
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βeta: "The little sod" is a good route. a bit technical untill your on the ledges and shame its not longer but still a good climb. probably 6b.
johnl 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The new route to the left is "The Little Sod" 6b.
βeta?
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βeta: The new route to the left is "The Little Sod" 6b.
viking 30 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: very,very polished at the bottom, but still easier than chalkie and the hex 5...the top took a little working out, once found the crimp is bomber
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βeta: very,very polished at the bottom, but still easier than chalkie and the hex 5...the top took a little working out, once found the crimp is bomber
Peter Swift 20 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: get over it JIMBO.and take a chill pill
βeta?
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βeta: get over it JIMBO.and take a chill pill
Wilbur 19 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If by "brilliant" you mean "reachy and polished", then i would have to agree...
βeta?
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βeta: If by "brilliant" you mean "reachy and polished", then i would have to agree...
Richard Horn 18 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Its ok but not brilliant by any stretch of the imagination.
βeta?
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βeta: Its ok but not brilliant by any stretch of the imagination.
airbournegrapefruit 17 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: you bunch of poofs this route is brillient. on of the only routes on the island i dont mind taking a fall on. start on the right it makes it a bit more fun.
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βeta: you bunch of poofs this route is brillient. on of the only routes on the island i dont mind taking a fall on. start on the right it makes it a bit more fun.
Wilbur 24 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you're short (as i am!) then good footwork and a bit of bottle will see you through. Really enjoyed this lead after bricking it a bit on the first couple of clips... PS: the start is a bit polished for feet so beware
βeta?
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βeta: If you're short (as i am!) then good footwork and a bit of bottle will see you through. Really enjoyed this lead after bricking it a bit on the first couple of clips... PS: the start is a bit polished for feet so beware
Richard Horn 24 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. Felt a bit run out at the top, definately did not want to fall on the last couple of moves before the lower off at the top. 60cm extender comes in useful.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent route. Felt a bit run out at the top, definately did not want to fall on the last couple of moves before the lower off at the top. 60cm extender comes in useful.
Ewan 9 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Crucial holds near the deck are getting really polished now !
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βeta: Crucial holds near the deck are getting really polished now !

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 191
Votes cast 159
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fear's Younger Brother

Grade: 6a ***
(Blacknor Far South)

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