8m.

Rockfax Description
Climb direct to a good break below the final wall. Climb the wall with difficulty, right of the bolts and reach left to clip the lower-off. © Rockfax

Ticklists

4 - 5 Grade Climbs at The Cuttings , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
omniscient_penguin 27 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Re-did this one and the last moves are awkward. There's two reasonable grips around the penultimate bolt to let you build the feet, but once above that I used a full on pinch grip with the right just under the vague undercut. Shifted my weight across to get the only positive left hand grip up near the lower off and from there you can latch the top ledge if you've moved the feet up high enough. Not one to wander into blindly though.
βeta?
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βeta: Re-did this one and the last moves are awkward. There's two reasonable grips around the penultimate bolt to let you build the feet, but once above that I used a full on pinch grip with the right just under the vague undercut. Shifted my weight across to get the only positive left hand grip up near the lower off and from there you can latch the top ledge if you've moved the feet up high enough. Not one to wander into blindly though.
omniscient_penguin 11 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Easy all the way up and then a really tough last move that didn't seem all that obvious. It shares the lower off with the 3+ next door so I lead that and then top roped this one to figure the end out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy all the way up and then a really tough last move that didn't seem all that obvious. It shares the lower off with the 3+ next door so I lead that and then top roped this one to figure the end out.
TRNovice 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of places where it's quite evident that there used to be holds that have either worn smooth or split off. Polished and now undergraded. Probably not worth the bother. Better to head to the right to cleaner climbs and reasonable holds IMO.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of places where it's quite evident that there used to be holds that have either worn smooth or split off. Polished and now undergraded. Probably not worth the bother. Better to head to the right to cleaner climbs and reasonable holds IMO.
Richard Horn 27 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The final move is quite technical but would seem ok for F5 at a climbing wall - just requires a bit of technique as opposed to grunt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The final move is quite technical but would seem ok for F5 at a climbing wall - just requires a bit of technique as opposed to grunt.

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Xavier's Wall

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

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