UKH

11m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the jamming crack - that doesn't necessarily need to be jammed. A spot favoured by roosting pigeons that seem unfazed by the continual passage of climbers. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland for the beginner (lead climbs), 4 - 5 Grade Climbs at The Cuttings, Portland sub 6b, Portland, Portland road to 7a

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User Date Notes
Juliet Daalder 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pigeon in the crack
βeta?
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βeta: Pigeon in the crack
Francescaparratt 5 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Removed a large chunk of loose rock near the anchors whilst on Too Many Cooks (shared anchor), instead of a big wobbly grabby thing there is now a side pull. Not sure how much/ if it effects the route.
βeta?
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βeta: Removed a large chunk of loose rock near the anchors whilst on Too Many Cooks (shared anchor), instead of a big wobbly grabby thing there is now a side pull. Not sure how much/ if it effects the route.
BertieP42 3 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Stopped at the crack, left a maillon and lowered off as there was a small fledgling nesting in the crack
βeta?
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βeta: Stopped at the crack, left a maillon and lowered off as there was a small fledgling nesting in the crack
boynamedsue 17 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Getting onto the ledge is not fun. Realising that you stood up in the wrong place and having to downclimb then come back up! Also pretty sandy at the moment after all this rain!
βeta?
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βeta: Getting onto the ledge is not fun. Realising that you stood up in the wrong place and having to downclimb then come back up! Also pretty sandy at the moment after all this rain!
Phil Anderson 10 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely and enjoyable warm-up route spot on for the grade. No jamming needed although I did use an arm bar. Glad it's been bolted, It's Portland FFS! Anyway, I don't have any cams big enough to fit half of this crack.
βeta?
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βeta: A lovely and enjoyable warm-up route spot on for the grade. No jamming needed although I did use an arm bar. Glad it's been bolted, It's Portland FFS! Anyway, I don't have any cams big enough to fit half of this crack.
CurlyStevo 4 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I don't see the point in trad climbing at portland. I'm pretty sure that this is as weird as bolting stanage to most folk!
βeta?
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βeta: I don't see the point in trad climbing at portland. I'm pretty sure that this is as weird as bolting stanage to most folk!
Wilbur 17 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Why not bolt a crack that would eat cams should be the question? Cams are bloomin expensive - bolting makes it more accessible and less exclusive in this case. A good thing for those starting out IMO. When you are more experienced you can then buy cams and swan around town using them. Portland is a sport venue in case you hadn't noticed..
βeta?
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βeta: Why not bolt a crack that would eat cams should be the question? Cams are bloomin expensive - bolting makes it more accessible and less exclusive in this case. A good thing for those starting out IMO. When you are more experienced you can then buy cams and swan around town using them. Portland is a sport venue in case you hadn't noticed..
Ben Thorne 15 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Adam's right and SC can please never visit Portland again (I'll say it time and time again - who cares how a route is protected? - you're supposed to be climbing!) You don't need to jam, there's good jugs. A good easy route.
βeta?
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βeta: Adam's right and SC can please never visit Portland again (I'll say it time and time again - who cares how a route is protected? - you're supposed to be climbing!) You don't need to jam, there's good jugs. A good easy route.
Steve McQueen 8 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why go to Portland and complain about a bolted crack?
βeta?
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βeta: Why go to Portland and complain about a bolted crack?
airbournegrapefruit 7 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: very nice climb. the top isn't that bad, but would be better with less mud. overall nice climb.
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βeta: very nice climb. the top isn't that bad, but would be better with less mud. overall nice climb.
SC 8 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Jamming for whimps. why bolt a crack that would eat cams?
βeta?
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βeta: Jamming for whimps. why bolt a crack that would eat cams?
me1 6 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nice climbing - couldn't have led it at this grade which i can indoors, but a nice route to second. muddy approach which can cause probs but would recommend the little ledge to sit and put your rock shoes on if you prefer not to have slimy shoes!
βeta?
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βeta: nice climbing - couldn't have led it at this grade which i can indoors, but a nice route to second. muddy approach which can cause probs but would recommend the little ledge to sit and put your rock shoes on if you prefer not to have slimy shoes!
Adam Perrett 2 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I have climbed this many times and I don't use any jams. There are plenty of good holds just inside the crack. Getting onto the ledge at the top is tricky though.
βeta?
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βeta: I have climbed this many times and I don't use any jams. There are plenty of good holds just inside the crack. Getting onto the ledge at the top is tricky though.
Steph 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: brilliant fun if your into jamming.
βeta?
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βeta: brilliant fun if your into jamming.

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