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17m.

Rockfax Description
An fantastic route that features a lot of varied and tough climbing. The start is a powerful boulder problem at V2. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, Barry Clarke 02/Oct/1996.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland sub 6b, Portland, Spanish crew 2018

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User Date Notes
Vince 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Bouldery start. OK when you've worked out the sequence. But there is a hands free rest after that. Had to run my fingers up the groove in the middle section for the reachy bit, but then again I'm 5 foot nothing.
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βeta: Bouldery start. OK when you've worked out the sequence. But there is a hands free rest after that. Had to run my fingers up the groove in the middle section for the reachy bit, but then again I'm 5 foot nothing.
Alun 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky hang/throw to start but things soon ease into a brilliant balancy route. One of the best 6s in the area.
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βeta: Tricky hang/throw to start but things soon ease into a brilliant balancy route. One of the best 6s in the area.
Mick B 5 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Hard bouldery start, i`m 5`9 and it felt about english 6a. Then great sustained climbing. Top route.
βeta?
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βeta: Hard bouldery start, i`m 5`9 and it felt about english 6a. Then great sustained climbing. Top route.
Wilbur 9 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Also meant to say that the new rockfax guide is a bit misguiding as it indicates that the lower-off is directly above the big roof in the photo and it's actually just to the left and not very high up of that roof. I could see the lower off to the left all the way up but all i could think as i approached the top was "that must be the LO to the adjacent route, i wonder how far the LO for this is above that roof". followed by fear fear fear and lack of commitment :o(
βeta?
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βeta: Also meant to say that the new rockfax guide is a bit misguiding as it indicates that the lower-off is directly above the big roof in the photo and it's actually just to the left and not very high up of that roof. I could see the lower off to the left all the way up but all i could think as i approached the top was "that must be the LO to the adjacent route, i wonder how far the LO for this is above that roof". followed by fear fear fear and lack of commitment :o(
Wilbur 30 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Blew the onsight on the move to the lower-off - bloomin pumpy! Fantastic route though - it's got a bit of everything. I didn't find it reachy at all and i'm 5'8". I thought the start was rock-hard at the grade though - very bouldery.
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βeta: Blew the onsight on the move to the lower-off - bloomin pumpy! Fantastic route though - it's got a bit of everything. I didn't find it reachy at all and i'm 5'8". I thought the start was rock-hard at the grade though - very bouldery.
Jus 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: You've gotta pull a bit harder on the start but there's plenty of good holds. Lovely balancy move to get in the groove.
βeta?
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βeta: You've gotta pull a bit harder on the start but there's plenty of good holds. Lovely balancy move to get in the groove.
climbingrich 5 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: don't know if somethings fallen off the bottem or what, but i couldn't get up the damn thing, and i normally scramble up 6c's......
βeta?
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βeta: don't know if somethings fallen off the bottem or what, but i couldn't get up the damn thing, and i normally scramble up 6c's......

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Trad Free World

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)