Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Great gear and superb moves on the upper section make this one a must-do. Take a direct line to the roof then pull over into the interesting main groove. The finish is a touch polished. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS

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User Date Notes
Katsmiff 2 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First climb of the day. Tricky side lean move trying to get gear in. Not the easiest VS.
βeta?
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βeta: First climb of the day. Tricky side lean move trying to get gear in. Not the easiest VS.
Will S Hough 4 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Take small nuts for the top sequence, solid #2 cam below the roof. Enjoyed the climb, fun challenge at the top. Took a fall on the cam.
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βeta: Take small nuts for the top sequence, solid #2 cam below the roof. Enjoyed the climb, fun challenge at the top. Took a fall on the cam.
JackArn 24 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Managed to get it done on an overcast January day, looks sweet from the bottom but once at the crux you start to hate your life, friction is nil, and the holds are slopey, and to add to the mix I went to shake out and knocked my yellow cam 2 into the sea to where it found its final resting place.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Managed to get it done on an overcast January day, looks sweet from the bottom but once at the crux you start to hate your life, friction is nil, and the holds are slopey, and to add to the mix I went to shake out and knocked my yellow cam 2 into the sea to where it found its final resting place.
Lucylou19 4 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Failed on the lead, rested on top rope. This is NOT VS5a. When on VS5a can you only progress with finger locks and knee bars? Hilarious! Would reccomend but not for the new VS leader!
βeta?
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βeta: Failed on the lead, rested on top rope. This is NOT VS5a. When on VS5a can you only progress with finger locks and knee bars? Hilarious! Would reccomend but not for the new VS leader!
Wilbur 6 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: i can finger lock thanks and have done on E1s!! I stand by my earlier comments.
βeta?
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βeta: i can finger lock thanks and have done on E1s!! I stand by my earlier comments.
Wilbur 20 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Where's the 5a bit?! try the move from the polished to buggery slot through to crap flat limestone slopers near the top!!!
βeta?
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βeta: Where's the 5a bit?! try the move from the polished to buggery slot through to crap flat limestone slopers near the top!!!
Jon Greengrass 5 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: classicly polished limestone
βeta?
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βeta: classicly polished limestone
SARS 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Would be good if it wasn't so polished at the top.
βeta?
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βeta: Would be good if it wasn't so polished at the top.
Oli 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Polished even.
βeta?
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βeta: Polished even.
Oli 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Poliahed piece of crap. Managed to back off it once then fall off it! I don't like it, however, next time...
βeta?
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βeta: Poliahed piece of crap. Managed to back off it once then fall off it! I don't like it, however, next time...
Albie 20 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A climb with a reputation - near the top i found the greasy handholds just as i was getting pumped but then managaged to down climb and to a rest position. Got it clean on my second shot - impressed myself no end as this was my first proper trip out of the season.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A climb with a reputation - near the top i found the greasy handholds just as i was getting pumped but then managaged to down climb and to a rest position. Got it clean on my second shot - impressed myself no end as this was my first proper trip out of the season.
Richard Horn 26 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first ever VS lead. Spent 10 mins with my feet on the ledge contemplating the crux, by which time a layer of sweat had developed on the polished finger slot. Finally pulled through the moves to the top which I might have done more calmly if I hadnt spent so long thinking about it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was my first ever VS lead. Spent 10 mins with my feet on the ledge contemplating the crux, by which time a layer of sweat had developed on the polished finger slot. Finally pulled through the moves to the top which I might have done more calmly if I hadnt spent so long thinking about it.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 145
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 138
Votes cast 127
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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