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25m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stunning positions, excellent rock and sound protection.
You can't go wrong - or can you? For the best experience, wait until it is in good condition and has had a bit of sun on it.
1) 5b, 5m. Traverse right along the fault-line, or drop down to sea level and back up, to a sloping ledge beneath the roofs.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb the intimidating roofed corner and the stamina draining groove above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, Tim Dunsby 11/Aug/1974.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Best of the rest and the ones that got away, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chad123 9 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Did this today and have to agree that it is worth E2 for the traverse and the strenuous bulges too, but has good rest points. Very intimidating for your average HVS/E1 leader!
βeta?
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βeta: Did this today and have to agree that it is worth E2 for the traverse and the strenuous bulges too, but has good rest points. Very intimidating for your average HVS/E1 leader!
phantom whistler 27 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed Mars in the dark - this was not intentional, my leader took a long time - there are copious handholds, I could make them out every time the lighthouse beam swung inland and illuminated the chalk marks - I have no idea if there are footholds? I struggle to second 5b in broad daylight.
βeta?
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βeta: Climbed Mars in the dark - this was not intentional, my leader took a long time - there are copious handholds, I could make them out every time the lighthouse beam swung inland and illuminated the chalk marks - I have no idea if there are footholds? I struggle to second 5b in broad daylight.
purple sue 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Echo the last comment re: feeling beaten up. I did it some years ago now as an early E1 (was considering it as a first E1 as it was graded E1 5a - low in the grade and all that) but glad I'd had a few other E1 s under my belt before I did this one. We did an HVS in the Ruckle afterwards and it felt like a walk in the park in comparison! A fantastic experience though..
βeta?
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βeta: Echo the last comment re: feeling beaten up. I did it some years ago now as an early E1 (was considering it as a first E1 as it was graded E1 5a - low in the grade and all that) but glad I'd had a few other E1 s under my belt before I did this one. We did an HVS in the Ruckle afterwards and it felt like a walk in the park in comparison! A fantastic experience though..
El Greyo 18 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. I think that going round the first overhang is 5b. I don't think it's E2 material though as it's well protected and you can have many rests. It's a bloody good struggle. I think we were lucky as it was only a little damp when we did it.
βeta?
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βeta: Superb route. I think that going round the first overhang is 5b. I don't think it's E2 material though as it's well protected and you can have many rests. It's a bloody good struggle. I think we were lucky as it was only a little damp when we did it.
GrahamD 4 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: I actually thought that the grade E1 5A was about as accurate as you could get with this route. The moves are certainly 'strange' and intimidating, but not hard in the execution. Gear is good and frequent so I don't see why the route should be higher than E1 (E1 is about as hard as I climb and it wasn't my toughest lead by a long way). I did it in one pitch and it was dry.
βeta?
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βeta: I actually thought that the grade E1 5A was about as accurate as you could get with this route. The moves are certainly 'strange' and intimidating, but not hard in the execution. Gear is good and frequent so I don't see why the route should be higher than E1 (E1 is about as hard as I climb and it wasn't my toughest lead by a long way). I did it in one pitch and it was dry.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Buccaneer

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)