15m.

Rockfax Description
A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time.
1) 6b, 15m. A boulder problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and small wires - hard to place. Move up to a peg then step right and make a long stretch for the undercut. Pull over and climb more easily to a cave belay, medium cam useful. Abseil off (indifferent belay) or safer and for the full tick ...
2) 5a, 10m. Step right to an easy, but well-positioned groove and the summit meadows. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1967. An awesomely impressive ascent for the time - the initial roof is probably a V5 or V6 boulder problem..

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , The Festival Of Shite

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User Date Notes
nigel baker 13 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good Grief, and we thought they were a bit strange when we first did it all those years ago Chris!!!!20+????
βeta?
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βeta: Good Grief, and we thought they were a bit strange when we first did it all those years ago Chris!!!!20+????
Chris Craggs 12 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The pegs are originals - look at the FA date and ponder! Chris
βeta?
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βeta: The pegs are originals - look at the FA date and ponder! Chris
Ropeboy 24 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The pegs are a bit dodgy but they are between the 2 crux's on easier ground and you should be all right. There is an in-situ sling that you can clip to protect the reachy crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The pegs are a bit dodgy but they are between the 2 crux's on easier ground and you should be all right. There is an in-situ sling that you can clip to protect the reachy crux.
nigel baker 23 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I presume the pegs are in good order for this grade????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I presume the pegs are in good order for this grade????

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 36
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Decadence

Grade: E4 6a ***
(High Tor)

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