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29m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start 12m back and climb up the back of the chimney into the roof of the cave to the dim and distant skylight. Exit via this. The grade is nominal and a lamp helps. Finish up a blocky gully. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An adventure through the cave system in the roof (!) at the back of Fingal's Cave.

Ticklists

The troglodyte squeeze specials, Through Routes!, Puttrell's Progress, Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers., Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
DFrank 20 Jun AltLd O/S If you like insecure, slimy, unprotected bridging above massive pointy boulders then get on this route asap! If however you are of a sound mind then run away from the bird shit filled, spider infested and somehow polished horror show this is.
If you like insecure, slimy, unprotected bridging above massive pointy boulders then get on this route asap! If however you are of a sound mind then run away from the bird shit filled, spider infested and somehow polished horror show this is.
AlexBclimbing 20 Jun AltLd O/S
with DFrank
with DFrank
Hidden 1 Jun AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing H 1 Jun AltLd O/S How on earth does this not get any stars?!? Totally novel and utterly entertaining, it is without doubt a three star classic of the genre. So unlikely when you first get to it and even when you know where it goes it looks pretty unlikely. Absolutely brilliant. No headtorch.
How on earth does this not get any stars?!? Totally novel and utterly entertaining, it is without doubt a three star classic of the genre. So unlikely when you first get to it and even when you know where it goes it looks pretty unlikely. Absolutely brilliant. No headtorch.
Hidden 10 Aug, 2018 2nd
Stoney Boy H 1 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with Clare Reading, Neil Foster
with Clare Reading, Neil Foster
Hidden 1 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
djpeck1 15 Jul, 2018 2nd
josh12345 15 Jul, 2018 2nd
with djpeck1, Mike Irwing, jshields
with djpeck1, Mike Irwing, jshields
jshields 15 Jul, 2018 Lead Great adventure!
with josh12345, Mike Irwing, djpeck1
Great adventure!
with josh12345, Mike Irwing, djpeck1
Graeme Hammond 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S So cool better than Scoop Wall?, started just before it got dark which added to the fun and made me wonder if i was going the right way as i tunneled up in the dark :)
with Sam Heap
So cool better than Scoop Wall?, started just before it got dark which added to the fun and made me wonder if i was going the right way as i tunneled up in the dark :)
with Sam Heap
RM199 11 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
loonylovegood93 11 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Ben Wadsworth 3 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
with Ben Clifton
with Ben Clifton
bclifton 3 Oct, 2016 Lead
Philgsmith 3 Sep, 2016 2nd β
SuperLee1985 3 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S "Interesting"is definately the word. At first i thought this was going up and ten traversing out to the big obvious hole. Only after waving our phones about a bit (we forgot head torches) did we spot the barely person sized hole in the roof. Bridgig up to this felt a little precarious as the rock is a bit slippery and not much in the way of hands. Once i remembered how to bridge it was ok. A couple of nuts went in the right wall, left the rest of my rack at the bottom. Squirmed my torso through the hole facing right, back and footing, then found a good ledge on the left wall to push myself the rest of the way through. I assumed this would be the dificulties over but i was very wrong. The steep middle section of the upper tunnel was incredibly thrutchy and spent a long time grunting and thrashing about and not getting anywhere. I was unble to get my foot on the key right foot hold as my knee kept getting in the way. Eventually laid back a bit to give me a bit more space and suceeded. Belayed phil from the exit without bothering with an anchor. Abbed off a tree instead of finishing up the groove.
"Interesting"is definately the word. At first i thought this was going up and ten traversing out to the big obvious hole. Only after waving our phones about a bit (we forgot head torches) did we spot the barely person sized hole in the roof. Bridgig up to this felt a little precarious as the rock is a bit slippery and not much in the way of hands. Once i remembered how to bridge it was ok. A couple of nuts went in the right wall, left the rest of my rack at the bottom. Squirmed my torso through the hole facing right, back and footing, then found a good ledge on the left wall to push myself the rest of the way through. I assumed this would be the dificulties over but i was very wrong. The steep middle section of the upper tunnel was incredibly thrutchy and spent a long time grunting and thrashing about and not getting anywhere. I was unble to get my foot on the key right foot hold as my knee kept getting in the way. Eventually laid back a bit to give me a bit more space and suceeded. Belayed phil from the exit without bothering with an anchor. Abbed off a tree instead of finishing up the groove.
admackie 8 Jul, 2016 Lead
with kev
with kev
Brown 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd Previously led with aid from a headtorch I'm proud to say I have now led this clean without artificial (light) aids.
with Lilifa
Previously led with aid from a headtorch I'm proud to say I have now led this clean without artificial (light) aids.
with Lilifa
dr_botnik 30 May, 2015 2nd O/S
deacondeacon H 30 May, 2015 Solo O/S Well cool. Best route of the day.
Well cool. Best route of the day.
sopaz 30 May, 2015 2nd
admackie 30 May, 2015 Lead super rad
super rad
Duncan Campbell H 25 Apr, 2014 2nd Brilliant route to do on a wet day before Bubbles' wedding! More of this to come tomorrow! Ungradeable fun!
with Will Ripley, Hamish, Tom Ripley
Brilliant route to do on a wet day before Bubbles' wedding! More of this to come tomorrow! Ungradeable fun!
with Will Ripley, Hamish, Tom Ripley
Hidden 25 Apr, 2014 2nd
The old James turnbull ??, 2014 Lead
stephenhartley ? Jul, 2013 2nd β Excellent
with Dave Brown
Excellent
with Dave Brown
victim of mathematics 18 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S An amazing route once you've got past the bold start. It's more like caving really. Probably VS 4a would be a more accurate grade.
with Fidget
An amazing route once you've got past the bold start. It's more like caving really. Probably VS 4a would be a more accurate grade.
with Fidget
bridget143 5 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
with Brown
with Brown
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
conradallen 3 Feb, 1990 Lead
Steve Lenartowicz ??, 1985 -
Darron ??, 1980 -
mitch1960 ??, 1980 Lead
Dave Musgrove 7 Apr, 1973 Lead This was the Cave variation
This was the Cave variation
34 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 7
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Paradise Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Plantation)